Forth Trip To The Poconos, Stroudsburg

Today I made yet another trip to Stroudsburg. Ordinarily I would not visit a city so soon after a previous trip but I’m seriously considering moving to Stroudsburg. That means my research has to be far more extensive than a trip made from idle curiosity. I had a long list of things to check out and photos I needed for my custom travel guide for Stroudsburg. I currently have 80 web pages of material on Stroudsburg.

I parked at my usual spot on Ann Street. The parking lot was nearly full because a lot of people where attending church at Light of the World Church. The first place I went to was Earthlight Natural Foods, a health food grocery store. I thought this store might be located in the textile mill that houses the American Ribbon Fabric but it had a separate building. Apparently nobody has ever bothered to take a photo of this grocery store. Earthlight Natural Foods does not open until 11:00 a.m. on Sundays and I arrived in Stroudsburg shortly after 10:00 a.m. so I didn’t go inside then.

Earthlight Natural Foods

Next I walked up to Main Street and then went further west than on previous trips. I saw the Pocono Mountains Visitors Bureau and then found a Wawa store. Wawa is a famous chain of convenience stores based in the Philadelphia area.  Wawa is practically a Philly institution. We don’t have any Wawa stores in my area but Sheetz is another popular chain of convenience stores and we have one of those. At the Wawa store I bought the Sunday edition of The Pocono Record and a bottle of Wawa iced tea. The Sunday edition of The Pocono Record was really thick with inserts which pleased me because it will be better research material than the really thin Saturday edition. I also picked up a copy of The Pocono Times.

After depositing the newspapers in my car I went back to Main Street and took some photos of Main Street Jukebox, a record store. I did find a good photo of this establishment online but it was outdated. Main Street Jukebox is in a different location and looks completely different now. So this was something I wanted to correct in my notes.

I entered Dunkelberger’s Sports Outfitter on Main Street to see if they had any hiking gear. They did have a pretty good selection of camping gear so I bought a deluxe brass whistle and a multi-colored headlamp by Coleman. I don’t think I need overnight camping equipment but I do want to carry emergency equipment while hiking. Dunkelberger’s Sports Outfitter did not have any trail maps or books on hiking.

I then located McMichael’s Falls. Here was something that I completely overlooked on my previous trips. There is a fantastic waterfall right in town and a small park with a viewing platform so you can enjoy the waterfalls. I shot some video of McMichael’s Falls and took lots of photos.

McMichael's Falls

When I got back to my car on Ann Street it was past 11:00 a.m. so I returned to Earthlight Natural Foods which was now open. They had an interesting selection of food, not the usual stuff you find in grocery stores. Unfortunately I could not buy anything that requires refrigeration since I was two hours drive from home but I did buy a bag of Maple Pecans by Sahale Snacks. Main Street Jukebox also opened at 11:00 a.m. on Sunday so made my way there next. Main Street Jukebox is a good old fashioned record store with vinyl records, compact discs, and books on rock bands for sale. I bought a two CD set of Blondie music including the CD of Ghosts of Download which I’ve never even heard of before. I used to be obsessed with Blondie so buying this CD was a deliberate act to invest Stroudsburg with some personal significance.

Main Street Jukebox

After that I walked along Sarah Street and took photos of any building that was of some interest. I found the Stroudsburg Fire Department building which was pretty interesting. I probably should have spent more time downtown but I had other places to visit so I drove to the Pocono Plaza in East Stroudsburg. The Pocono Plaza is your typical strip mall and I usually would not make a point of visiting a shabby little strip mall, but I intend to investigate every nook and cranny of this town. There is also a Kmart store in the strip mall which was the only store I entered. Kmart has become a pretty shabby department store which is barely surviving. They do sell a lot of heavily discounted DVDs now. I found a really cool Japanese science fiction movie Assault Girls for only $5.00.

I continued further into East Stroudsburg and finally visited the Pocono Medical Center and East Stroudsburg University which was on my itinerary for previous trips. It is kind of surprising that nobody has taken any photos of these important facilities and put them online. I could not find any decent photos of the Pocono Medical Center or various buildings on the East Stroudsburg University campus. These are the two largest employers in the Stroudsburg area so this was some serious sleuthing and not idle tourism. I was particularly interested in seeing the Fine Performing Arts Center and felt quite pleased after making a long walk in the hot sun just to find the place. There really isn’t much to East Stroudsburg except for the university which has grown into a vast empire.

Fine Performing Arts Center

Before going home I went to the Stroud Mall and bought a book on Hiking Pennsylvania at Books-A-Million. I also had a slice of pizza at the food court. I was hoping to find Sbarro’s Pizzeria which is still listed in the mall directory but they have been replaced with another pizza restaurant. It is easier to get back on Interstate 80 West if you go to Stroud Mall.

I probably should have spent more time in Stroudsburg. I left at 2:00 p.m. and got home by 4:00 p.m. I don’t think I will make any more trips to the Poconos for awhile because I’m dangerously low on money. I need to do more research on Honesdale, Jim Thorpe, and Milford before I can visit those quaint towns in the Poconos region.

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Hiking In Rider Park

Today I went hiking in Rider Park. Rider Park must be the best kept secret of Lycoming County. Nobody seems to know anything about it. The park is managed by the First Community Foundation Partnership of Pennsylvania. Rider Park is not a state park which may be why the park is not well known. However it is open to the public and it is free.

Finding Rider Park proved to be slightly difficult because you have to follow a detour while a bridge is being repaired. Like many attractions in Pennsylvania, you have to follow winding roads into the woods and climb hills to reach your destination. The drive is often scenic but nerve wracking. The great thing about Rider Park is that it is only 15 minutes away so it does not require a long drive. Rider Park is located near Warrensville, north of Montoursville, an area I have never explored.

Rider Park Sign

I have been doing a lot of hiking this summer. I’m proud that I’m taking advantage of the summer instead of staying home sitting in front of my computer all day. So far I have been to Ricketts Glen State Park (twice), Watkins Glen State Park, Big Pocono State Park, Bushkill Falls, and Hickory Run State Park (Boulder Field). I have decided to get a little more serious about hiking and buy some of the hiking gear you should have. At the very least, you need to bring some water with you on a hike or you will be dying of thirst before you are through. On this hike I had a small first aid kit, my Leatherman multi-tool, binoculars, moist towelettes, and a bottle of water. I also wore the hiking hat I bought on the Delaware Water Gap trip. My backpack is a really cheap one I bought at a dollar store but it is holding up well.

The trails at Rider Park are very wide. You could easily ride an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) on the trails but motorized recreational vehicles are prohibited. I did see plenty of tire tracks on the trails which were too large to be caused by mountain bikes. Since the trails were so wide it was very easy to follow them. The trail blazes are colored dots at eye level on trees. There were also many trail signs to show you the way.

I found trail maps at the parking lot. I started on the Francis X. Kennedy Trail (Green) and found the Doe Pen Vista. I heard a lot of gunshots at Doe Pen Vista because there are sportsmen grounds nearby. The constant sound of a rifle being fired made me very nervous. I did take some great photos of the vista and I used my binoculars to get a closer view of the valley below.

Doe Pen Vista

I then got on the Blue trail (Cheryl’s Trail) which is one of the longer trails. I saw lots of ferns along the trail and woods with a carpeting of ferns which is my favorite nature scene. Cheryl’s Trail goes through some areas that are not densely wooded but appear more like a true park, still wild and not landscaped but maybe cleared of undergrowth. And there were some interesting things to see like a small graveyard, a mountain meadow with wild flowers, and the foundations of old homesteads. I found a metal toolbox in the homestead of Charles Ludwig. It must be a geocache. It contained a student’s ID card and some moldy papers. There was even a park bench where you could sit and contemplate the meadow.

Ludwig Meadow

Before returning to the parking lot I checked out the pavilion. Near the pavilion is the foundations of a barn which has been filled in with a wildflower garden. Some rusty farm implements were arranged around the old barn foundations. I also saw the homestead of Norman S. Wheeland which features the remains of stone walls and a stone cellar.

At the parking lot I found the Katy Jane Trail trailhead (Yellow). This trail is all uphill so it is very exhausting but it does lead to two vistas. I think it is the Loyalsock Creek Valley that you see from the vistas. From one of the vistas you can see more farms and rural dwellings along a road. I took a shortcut to get back to the parking lot, the Saddle Trail, where I saw a deer. That was the first wildlife I’ve seen while hiking. You could see a black bear while hiking in Lycoming County but I’m not too eager to see one of those in the wild. But it is neat to see a wild deer in the woods.

Deer at Rider Park

I did get lost while trying to find my way home but since I was still in Lycoming County it wasn’t too hard to find the way to Williamsport. It was interesting to see some rural roads in Lycoming County which I have never seen before. At one point I passed a large brick apartment building which looked surprising modern and upscale. I eventually reached “confusion corner” near Brandon Park which was a surprise. Using Google Maps, I can see that Rose Valley Lake is west of Rider Park and I must have come down Bloomingrove Road which leads to Brandon Park. My mistake was going west on Route 973 when I should have gone east to return to Warrensville Road. It looks like I could have followed Route 973 West to Lycoming Creek Road which is a better route for me to take.

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Delaware Water Gap

Today I made my third trip to the Poconos this summer. The focus of this trip was the small town of Delaware Water Gap which is located in the vicinity of Stroudsburg. To reach Delaware Water Gap I had to drive along Interstate 80 clear to the border with New Jersey. It is worthwhile to note a few landmarks along the way. There is a hideous apartment complex near Bloomsburg called the Lions Gate Luxury Apartments. It seems quite strange to build a huge apartment complex out in the middle of nowhere. According to their web site this is luxury campus housing for Bloomsburg University. Another useful landmark is the huge mountain that looms into view around mile 250. I think that is the Sugarloaf Mountain. I saw a Susquehanna Trailways bus on Interstate 80 which followed me a little ways. It was probably heading to New York City as part of their regular service and not a tour.

Once I reached Delaware Water Gap, I parked at the Water Gap Trolley parking lot. I wanted to take the trolley tour at 10:00 a.m. But since I arrived in town at 9:00 a.m. I had time to walk around and take some photos. I walked uphill and took photos of various establishments all the way to Deer Head Inn. That only took a half hour so I walked to the Water Gap Diner and ordered breakfast. I saw a few Appalachian Trail hikers at the diner. I’ve recently finished reading Bill Bryson’s book about the Appalachian Trail, A Walk In The Woods, so it was cool to see some actual Appalachian Trail hikers. Bill Bryson does mention the Delaware Water Gap in his book. I ordered pancakes, a coke, orange juice, and coffee. I ate and drank really fast because I wanted to catch the 10:00 a.m. trolley tour.

Water Gap Trolley

After breakfast I walked back to the Water Gap Trolley and bought a ticket for the 10:00 a.m. tour. A few senior citizens also showed up for the tour. The trolley first took us up Broad Street pass the Pennsylvania Welcome Center and into Shawnee on Delaware, another small community in the vicinity. This was very useful because it showed me the route to Shawnee from Delaware Water Gap. In Shawnee I saw the Stony Brook Inn, the Shawnee General Store, and the Shawnee Playhouse. I was particularly interested in the Shawnee Playhouse because while driving along Interstate 80 I had the brilliant idea to submit one of my plays to this theater. Their web site has a submission form for playwrights.

Shawnee Playhouse

The driver of the trolley kept up a running narration of the sights we were passing. I took keen notice of significant details. For example, we passed some Shawnee time shares which looked very luxurious. The wealthy still flock to the Poconos for outdoor recreation. And it was interesting to see where the Pennsylvania Welcome Center was located in relation to the Delaware Water Gap town. I saw where the Inti Peruvian Cuisine restaurant is located in  Shawnee.

The trolley went back through town and then followed PA 611 to the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area overlooks. This was also very useful since it showed me how to reach the three overlooks; the Resort Point Overlook, the Point of Gap Overlook, and the Arrow Island Overlook. Unfortunately the Resort Point Overlook was closed. We even went to the Cold Air Cave but we only saw it from the road. The trolley only stopped at the Point of Gap Overlook where I got off to take some photos of Mount Tammany.

Mount Tammany

When we arrived back at the Water Gap Trolley, I drove up Main Street to park in the spacious parking lot of Sycamore Grille. My next goal was to do some shopping since the stores were open by then. First I visited Edge of the Woods Outfitters which sells hiking gear to the Appalachian Trail hikers and offers bike rentals and kayak trips. The store did not have as much merchandise as I had expected. I bought a $40.00 Transit Sun Hat by Outdoor Research. I’m not a hiker but I’ve been doing a lot of hiking this summer. I only intend to do casual hiking but you shouldn’t even do that without some proper gear. At the very least you should be packing a water bottle. There are some hiking trails in Lycoming County which I plan to investigate.

Edge of the Woods Outfitters

The next store I visited was Castle Inn which is similar to the Street of Shops in Lewisburg, a sort of craft mall. Castle Inn has a Victorian ice cream parlor called Zoe’s Ice Cream Emporium. I had an ice cream cone there with two scoops for $4.00. I was the only customer because they had just opened but its hard to see how a town as small as Delaware Water Gap supports these establishments. I think I saw more hikers than tourists. I did buy something from the craft stores in Castle Inn, a polished stone for $1.00. I felt I had to buy something.

I wanted to visit the Antoine Dutot Museum and Gallery but it did not open until 1:00 p.m. so I had some time to kill. There really isn’t a lot to do in Delaware Water Gap. I drove up PA 611 and revisited the overlooks that I had seen from the trolley. The Resort Point Overlook was blocked off but I did go to the Point of Gap Overlook and the Arrow Island Overlook where I took many more photos at my leisure. I even went to the Cold Air Cave. I could feel the cold air emanating from this cave as soon as I walked up to it. There were many cars parked in front of the cave but I did not see anyone inside. I peered into the cave but I didn’t really go inside because it was dark and creepy in there.

 Cold Air Cave

When I drove back to Main Street it still was not 1:00 p.m. so I parked at the museum and had brunch at Zen Fusion which was clearly open now. Zen Fusion is a pretty fancy restaurant for such a small town. It must cater to sophisticated tourists from New York City and Philadelphia. I had Breakfast Chilaqules; corn chips with scrambled eggs, tomatillo sauce and feta cheese. I guess corn chips with scrambled eggs is a fusion dish! It wasn’t bad but this was the second breakfast I had that day. Fortunately that took some time and I found the museum open by then. The Antoine Dutot Museum and Gallery is located just behind Zen Fusion so I did not have to walk far.

The Antoine Dutot Museum and Gallery features an art gallery downstairs and a two room historical museum upstairs. I was tempted to buy some small art prints I found in the museum. Some of the art prints were paintings of Stroudsburg establishments on Main Street and there were also Times Square paintings which I really liked. One of the rooms upstairs was an old fashioned schoolroom which was very charming. I watched a slide show on Delaware Water Gap. I was left alone up there so I felt free to take some photos.

Appalachian Trail

The most interesting thing about the history of Delaware Water Gap is that it used to have hundreds of luxury hotels. The Delaware Water Gap was considered one of the greatest scenic wonders of the world back at the turn of the century. It is very impressive but hardly one of the greatest scenic wonders of the world. Nevertheless many grand hotels were built to provide vacationers with a great view of Mount Tammany. Equally surprising is how little remains of these palatial hotels. Only two small hotels remain; the Deer Head Inn and the Castle Inn. In this, the town of Delaware Water Gap is similar to the town of Eagles Mere which also had many resort hotels for vacationers from New York City and Philadelphia. Now Eagles Mere is just a tiny hamlet with a fancy little museum documenting some bygone era of grand hotels. I did see some very old photos of a very young Fred Astaire who used to vacation at Delaware Water Gap in its glory days.

When I left the museum I retraced the route of the trolley to return to Shawnee on Delaware. I parked at the Shawnee General Store and walked to the Shawnee Playhouse to take lots of photos of this theater. I also took photos of the bed and breakfast, Stony Brook Inn. I have considered staying there because it is tedious to drive two hours along Interstate 80. Unfortunately I don’t have the money to do anything except day trips. Eventually I may stay overnight in the Poconos since I intend to do some really extensive research into the area that may be my future home. The Shawnee General Store was kind of a dump without much merchandise but I bought a photo of the Delaware Water Gap anyway. It did seem like a genuine general store and not a tourist trap.

I needed to find a restroom after that brunch at Zen Fusion started to disagree with me so I stopped at the Pennsylvania Welcome Center. During the trolley ride I heard that the place had flooded up to its roof and cost millions of dollars to construct. I was alarmed by the accounts of flooding since I don’t want to move to a flood prone area. I have been in this fancy Pennsylvania Welcome Center before because the Susquehanna Trailways bus sometimes makes a comfort stop there. I picked up a few more brochures there.

Pennsylvania Welcome Center

My final stop was the Crossings Premium Outlets. I always see this place from Interstate 80 during bus trips to New York City. I remember we did stop there once and I visited a bookstore. Unfortunately there are no bookstores there now. Crossings Premium Outlets has many stores but they are all clothing stores. In this respect, it is similar to the King of Prussia Mall. All those stores and there is absolutely nothing I would want to buy! I picked up a shopping guide and went into a Timberland store and a Hot Topic store but I bought nothing. I will never go to Crossings Premium Outlets again. The parking lot was completely full so I had to park behind one of the buildings.

Before I went home I did stop at the Lycoming Mall again. I wanted to stop in at Gander Mountain to buy some hiking supplies. Gander Mountain was not where I thought it would be. I must have misread the Google Map satellite view. Gander Mountain is located in one of the huge box stores around the mall, but not on the side where I thought it was. I almost didn’t bother to stop in because they were doing a lot of construction on the entrance and I wasn’t sure if they were open. I bought a compass and a medical kit at the camping section. I probably don’t need that for casual hiking but some of the hiking trails in Lycoming County are deep in the woods, in the mountains of the northern part of the county. This part of Pennsylvania is advertised to tourists as “The Wilds” with hunting and fishing as the big attractions. There does seem to be a whole culture of outdoor adventuring that I know nothing about. I’m not up for anything really strenuous, but I might as well try some hiking closer to home.

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Day Trip To The Poconos

On Saturday during the July 4th weekend I made my second trip to the Poconos and Stroudsburg. I managed to spend the entire day in the area and did most of the things on my itinerary.

My first goal was to visit the Big Pocono State Park. The park is maintained by the Camelback Mountain Resort which is a large ski resort and waterpark. You have to drive past the Camelback Mountain Resort to reach the park on a curvy rural road that is partially uphill. I had precise directions on how to reach the state park but I wasn’t certain I was going the right way until I saw the park entrance. The Camelback Mountain Resort seemed to be quite busy for the July 4th weekend but fortunately I didn’t see a long line of cars until I went back down the mountain.

The main attraction of the Big Pocono State Park is the spectacular view of the countryside from that elevation. You can see the woods and mountains of Pennsylvania for a long distance in every direction. You can even see the Delaware Water Gap far in the distance. I hiked the Indian Trail which was more rocky than I expected. I thought I had gotten onto another trail but according to the park map I probably stayed on the Indian Trail which loops around. The Indian Trail is orange blazed and I only saw orange trail markings. The trail led deep into the woods. I saw rock outcroppings and lots of ferns which always look pretty in the woods. At one point the trail offers a great view of the Camelback Mountain Resort from above so I took many photos of that. I also saw the Stevenson Express chairlift operated by the ski resort.

Big Pocono State Park

My next goal was Bushkill Falls. To reach Bushkill Falls I had to retrace my route and get back on Interstate 80 which proved to be easy. I noticed that traffic was really backed up on Interstate 80 in the other direction. I think there was a Pocono Raceway race going on that day. I took exit 309 and got on US-209 North. This road was extremely congested and I probably spent an hour crawling along it. I thought there may have been an accident but the only thing I saw which might have backed up traffic was some firemen stopping traffic to collect donations in their firemen helmets. If those firemen were indeed responsible for backing up traffic for miles then that makes them the entitled assholes of the year!

Bushkill Falls was very crowded for the July 4th weekend. I had to park near the entrance on a grass lot in the last available space that you could squeeze into. When I left there were even cars parked along the highway. A ticket for Bushkill Falls costs $12.50 for an adult. It is billed as the Niagara Falls of Pennsylvania. Part of the trail is wooden walkways with handrails similar to Watkins Glen State Park’s rock trails. These privately owned waterfall areas have better trails than state parks which never had any commercial development. All of the trails were pretty crowded. I hiked the Bridal Veil Falls Trail which was too steep for me. I almost passed out after climbing uphill. But from Peter’s Corner it was easier to go downhill and I found a great view at the Delaware Valley Lookout. I also did the yellow trail through the Lower Gorge Falls, Laurel Glen, and the Upper Canyon. The Main Falls was spectacular and well worth the effort. I saw many Asian and Indian tourists so there must be international tourists visiting the Poconos.

Bushkill Falls

I bought a book at the Bushkill Falls gift shop, Pennsylvania Waterfalls: A Guide For Hikers and Photographers by Scott E. Brown. I figured this book would help me to identify the waterfalls I’ve already seen. I have many photos to tag. There are also some waterfalls in the Delaware Water Gap National Recreational Area which I plan to see.

Fortunately I did not find my car boxed in when it was time to go. I had no problem backing out of my parking space on the grass lot. US-209 South was still a bit congested on the way back. There are just too many establishments along that road to tempt motorists to slow down and turn off the road. I passed a few golf courses and the Pocono Palace Resort. I forgot to mention that I grabbed a bunch of brochures at Bushkill Falls. I also took brochures at rest stops on my way to the Poconos and back. I am making many improvements to my Pennsylvania travel guide this summer. I needed these brochures for further research.

Next on my itinerary was another visit to Stroudsburg. The focus of this visit was East Stroudsburg because I could find few photos online of establishments in this part of Stroudsburg. Although I could have followed US-209 to East Stroudsburg by taking the Business Route, I thought it would be easier to backtrack along my original route to Interstate 80. I took exit 307 to reach Broad Street in Stroudsburg. This was important because I need to know how to get off Interstate 80 West to get back to Stroudsburg. I turned left to drive down Ann Street to park in the same place as my previous trip.

I walked east on Ann Street and took a photo of the Stroudsburg post office for my custom travel guide because I did not like the photo I found online. The post office building is an attractive art deco building described on the Monroe County Historical Association web site. I also noticed the Willowtree Inn on Ann Street so I took photos of that restaurant. I thought this restaurant was supposed to offer views of woodlands? Yet here it was on a residential street downtown. I have to add this place to my notes.

I did finally eat at a Stroudsburg restaurant. I had dinner at Marco Antonio’s, which specializes in Spanish and Portuguese cuisine. I ordered the Alentejana plate, which is seasoned pork, clams, and  potatoes sautéed in a savory white wine and garlic sauce. Marco Antonio’s is a Bring Your Own Beer establishment and I saw a large party bring in a bottle of wine. In Pennsylvania, you can only buy wine at a state run liquor store. Stroundsburg has a Wine & Spirits store on Main Street. My bill was only slightly more than $25.00 which was about what the Alentejana costs. This was a pleasant surprise after my sticker shock at the bill at Osteria al Doge in New York City which was unexpectedly twice the cost of the main entree.

It was getting late and I was very tempted to skip the next item on my itinerary and just go to Stroud Mall. Fortunately the prospect of making another long trip to the Poconos to make up for what I didn’t do on this trip, steeled me to making the trip over to East Stroudsburg. I was reluctant because I did not have precise directions to find Crystal Street. Fortunately it was easy to get to Crystal Street. This street is supposedly the main drag of East Stroudsburg but I did not find it very impressive. I took many photos of interesting establishments because you cannot see Crystal Street on Google Street View and few photos exist of East Stroudsburg. I took photos of; the Trackside Station with the Liquid Restaurant & Martini Bar, the Municipal Building with its clock, the Alexander Loder house, the Pocono Cinema which was advertising a Frazettta Screening, Franzettta’s Fantasy Corner and Golf World in a Masonic Hall building, and the Lackawana Hotel Tavern.

Pocono Cinema

After leaving East Stroudsburg I drove back to Stroudsburg and followed Main Street to 9th Street. I turned right onto 9th Street and went to Stroud Mall. Stroud Mall is quite similar to our Lycoming Mall with the same stores. First I went to Books-A-Million where I bought a Time Out guide to New York for Visitors, a 128 page magazine. I didn’t really need this but it had a great cover photo of the Empire State Building. I also bought Bill Bryson’s A Walk In The Woods, a humorous account of his attempt to hike the Appalachian Trail. You can actually reach the Appalachian Trail at the Delaware Water Gap National Recreational Area. But I was mainly interested in this book because I’ve been doing a lot of walking in the woods. I can tell from my sales receipt that it was 5:00 p.m. when I made my purchase. I’m glad I managed to spend the entire day in the Poconos without cutting short my trip. I then went to Fye which is practically the only chain of stores left which sells physical CDs and DVDs. I was looking for DVDs on Flight 93 on September 11 but I had to settle for Oliver Stone’s film on the World Trace Center.

Before going home I did stop at the Lycoming Mall where I did find the United 93 film on DVD at Fye. I also visited Books-A-Million in this mall and bought the book Off The Beaten Path Pennsylvania which has the Reading Pagoda on its cover. I had seen this book at Stroud Mall and regretted not buying it. I have been reading all my Pennsylvania travel guides since I’m doing some intense exploration of the state this summer. And finally I stopped in at Sweet Frog in my neighborhood for a treat of frozen yogurt just to make the day complete.

This trip did much to advance my knowledge of the Poconos which is still a popular destination for New Yorkers and people from Philadelphia. I really enjoy hiking in the woods which is sort of nostalgic since it is a quintessential experience for residents of Pennsylvania. I even remember a rare instance of being sent to a summer camp but I don’t remember its name. My sister used to take us hiking in the woods far up our road which climbed a mountain into mysterious private land. I should probably invest in some hiking gear if I’m going to visit state parks often. For my next trip to the Poconos I will concentrate on the Delaware Water Gap.

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30th Day Trip To New York City

On Saturday I made my 30th day trip to New York City. So I have spent a month in New York City without paying for a hotel room (except for one overnight trip). I can still find things to do in the city but my trips are becoming a bit repetitive.

The first item on my itinerary was to visit an establishment on 28th Street.  My Metrocard had insufficient funds for the fare on the 1 train. Instead of buying a new Metrocard as usual, I used a smaller vending machine to add value to my card. I’m ridiculously pleased with this accomplishment. However, you can only use a debit card or a credit card to add value to your card. You cannot use cash. I saw a lot of stores selling flowers on West 28th Street. It is New York’s Flower District.

Next on my agenda was to visit Poets House, part of New York City’s literary community. New York City has always been the center of America’s publishing industry and a mecca for aspiring writers. I was planning on finding a poetry book and reading a poem or two at Poets House but all I really did was pop in and examine a showcase of independent presses. There were some musicians performing in the exhibition space which was open to the outside. I was practically the only one there and it seemed a bit awkward. Anyway, I had a reservation for the 9/11 Museum so I was in a bit of a hurry.

Poets House

I then found the Irish Hunger Memorial which I only recently discovered while looking at Google Maps of the area. The Irish Hunger Memorial was created in 2002 so it hasn’t been there for long. The memorial is a peculiar park built atop a oyster-like pedestal.  You enter the park through a tunnel in the pedestal and then climb a grassy hillside. It will be hard to picture the memorial based on this description so find some photos online. The Irish Hunger Memorial features the ruins of a 19th century Irish cottage. I’m not sure why you would want to place a memorial to the Great Irish Famine in New York City. The famine did cause millions of Irish to emigrate to the United States and New York City. They should create a giant empty whiskey bottle for an Irish Thirst Memorial.

Irish Hunger Memorial

Next I walked east and found St. Paul’s Chapel and Zuccotti Park. St. Paul’s Chapel has many exhibits honoring its role in providing a shelter for the victims of 9/11 and later the recovery workers. You should definitely make this church part of your visit to the 9/11 Memorial and Museum. The Zuccotti Park was interesting because that is where the Occupy Wall Street protesters camped out.

After that I went to the 9/11 Memorial and Museum. I wasn’t terribly interested in seeing the new museum and the memorial but I was going to be in the area anyway so it made sense to go there. The memorial pools are an impressive sight and a great use of the footprints of the World Trade Center Twin Towers. For the best view, position yourself on any corner. Considering how massive those buildings were, it does not take long to walk around the pools. There are of course, two pools since there were two towers. I did see the new One World Trade Center which is now the tallest building in Manhattan. There is still a lot of construction going on in the area. I think they are building a new World Trade Center PATH station. The World Trade Center Transportation Hub is a peculiar structure which looks like the ribs and spine of a giant, alien dinosaur.

9-11 Memorial Pool

The 9/11 Museum opened in May 2014, last month, so obviously I could not have visited the museum on previous trips. The museum is a bit crowded because it is a new attraction. You should definitely buy a ticket online to reserve a time for your visit. I suspect that eventually you will find it easier to visit the museum, but right now it requires a reservation and a bit of hassle. I arrived 20 minutes early but there was still a long line for the 2:00 p.m. entry time. There was some security to go through. You just had to empty your pockets of any electronics and large metal items. The security around the 9/11 Memorial is kind of annoying because the target of the terrorist attacks is long gone.

It took a lot longer to go through the 9/11 Museum than I expected. I think you should give it two hours. There is actually an extensive series of exhibits and it takes quite a while to see everything. I saw the personal effects of people killed in the attacks and various pieces of rubble. There were multimedia presentations to explain the events. The 9/11 Museum also includes material on the Pentagon attack and the crash of Flight 93 in Shanksville Pennsylvania. The museum is full of grim reminders of the tragedy that struck that day. Some artifacts seem dated, like the cell phones, while other things like the Metrocards are the same today.

9-11 Museum

I have not given much thought to September 11 on my trips to New York City, although it is mentioned in contemporary travel guides. September 11 was a Tuesday and I was at work that day. I was working as a web developer for a small web design company and we used to go to the Internet World shows at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. So at that time I was enjoying trips to New York City which made my profession seem especially glamorous. My very first trip to New York City was a complete nightmare but I remember seeing the World Trade Center Plaza.

Before leaving the 9/11 Museum I went to its controversial store. I looked for a book that would explain everything that happened that day. They did have the 9/11 Commission Report but I feared that would be too tedious to read. I saw they did sell some books with other viewpoints like Noam Chomsky’s 9-11: Was There an Alternative? but not any of the stupid conspiracy books. I bought the book 102 Minutes by Jim Dwyer and Kevin Flynn which appears to tell personal accounts of survival in the Twin Towers. I also bought a 9/11 Museum bookmark which was cheap enough for an impulse buy.

My final goal for this trip was dinner at Osteria al Doge. I was going to eat at Pigalle but you can’t make a reservation online and when I called to make a reservation they hung up on me when I told them when I wanted I eat. Osteria al Doge is on West 44th Street so I made my way uptown with plenty of time to spare. I wandered around the theater district a bit but it was even more crowded than usual. There were bus loads of people outside the stage door of the Richard Rodgers Theatre and it was difficult to squeeze through. They may have been hoping to see Idina Menzel, the leading actress  in the blockbuster Broadway musical Wicked. I bought a slushie at the Theatre District Shopping Court because I was dying from thirst. When I finally made my way to West 44th Street I discovered that 6th Avenue was blocked off for a huge street fair. New York City street fairs are an excellent opportunity to walk down the center of a street and take photos from that unusual perspective. My meal at Osteria al Doge was ridiculously expensive, $51.00 for just one person. I ordered the Calamari Alla Griglia, lemon and  herb marinated grilled calamari served with tomato, sweet bell pepper, and cucumber salad. I also had a glass of wine and tiramisu for dessert. In the future, I think I will stick to Japanese ramen restaurants which offer a cheap meal which is exotic enough.

After dinner I still had an hour to kill so I went to the Kinokuniya Bookstore across from Bryant Park. I went upstairs and found the DVD section where I selected the Japanese science fiction movie Gantz. I like to watch contemporary Japanese films. I bought several on Amazon before my trip to New Orleans. I didn’t do much shopping on this trip to New York City. I only bought one book and one DVD. But it was still an expensive trip. I found a table at Bryant Park and sat there for a while before heading to 51st Street to catch the bus home. I think Bryant Park might be a good place to kill time for the last hour of my NYC trips instead of the crowded Times Square, but it is a little far from where I need to be.

Next week I plan to continue my exploration of Stroudsburg and the Poconos. We drove past Stroudsburg on the way to New York City and I could see part of the city visible from the highway now that I know what to look for. If I lived in Stroudsburg PA I could visit New York City even more often and without such a tedious bus trip!

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I Am Studying NHibernate

I have not blogged about programming for a long time. That does not mean that I have not been improving my skills. I frequently come across something new and document it for my notes. For example, I recently discovered that web browsers can unexpectedly do form validation with built-in validation triggered by new HTML5 tag attributes. Since this unexpected behavior caught me by surprise twice, I researched the HTML5 Constraint API for Form Validation and added it to my notes. It is quite puzzling when the browser is doing form validation even though you don’t have any code for form validation!

Over the past few days I have been learning how to use NHibernate. NHibernate is an object-relational mapping (ORM) solution for the Microsoft .NET platform. I have been using SubSonic for object-relational mapping but I think the developers have abandoned that project. NHibernate is more difficult than SubSonic since you have to create your own classes. I did find a program to generate the classes, NHibernate Mapping Generator, but it is not as convenient as SubSonic.

The main advantage to using object-relational mapping is that you can make changes to your database tables without having to rewrite a lot of code. Usually you only need to add a line of code for a new column or change a line of code if you change a column’s data type. You won’t need to revise a lot of SQL strings in your code. A project in development may require many changes to the database schema so this can save a lot of time.

Today I learned how to select all records in a table, how to select records based on multiple criteria, and how to create a traditional SQL query which may be necessary for complicated queries. As with any database API, you have to learn how to do CRUD (Create a record, Read a record, Update a record, and Delete a record). I usually add an example of how to select all records and loop through the result set.

I plan to redesign my web site soon. I need to find new clients because I don’t have any freelance work to do right now. In the meantime, I will continue to make trips around Pennsylvania. There are still a few towns I could visit like Danville, Bloomsburg, and State College. I also want to explore the Poconos some more since there are many resorts there with a variety of recreational activities. I am particularly interested in Stroudsburg and will be doing a thorough investigation of the city and its resources. Today I learned exactly where the Pennsylvania Welcome Center is located in Delaware Water Gap and I clarified the location of the Martz Bus Terminal where you can catch a bus to New York City.

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Watkins Glen State Park and Corning Museum of Glass

Today I finally drove north into New York State to see some of the attractions. I’ve gone on a few bus trips to Niagara Falls which went through New York, but this was the first time I ventured up there on my own. I have done so much traveling this weekend that it seems like a real vacation, with multiple attractions seen each day as if I had limited time.

The drive north into lower New York State was very scenic. I drove through some fog in the higher elevations so there was an interesting mix of bright sunlight, patches of fog, and green mountains. I arrived at Watkins Glen State Park around 9:00 a.m. I wanted to be early because I heard the parking lot gets full on weekends. This did seem to be the case by noon. You are supposed to pay a $8.00 vehicle use fee when you enter the park but there was nobody around to take the money and give out tickets. I wasn’t asked to pay when I left so I got to visit the park for free!

Watkins Glen State Park

Watkins Glen State Park has some spectacular waterfalls and a deep gorge making for some incredible rock cliffs. It was better than Ricketts Glen State Park. The trail was also better with well made stone steps, rock tunnels, and strategically placed rock bridges. The falls trail in Ricketts Glen State Park is primitive in comparison and far more treacherous. There was a lot of places  where water was dripping onto the trail so I got a little wet and had to walk through some puddles. I had to worry about getting water on my camera lens. I took a lot of photos and even some video which I will upload to YouTube. On the Indian Trail I saw a small mountain cemetery with some impressive monuments so I photographed that too. Watkins Glen State Park has a gift shop but I only bought a heart shaped polished stone for $7.00 as a memento.

After leaving Watkins Glen State Park I went to the Corning Museum of Glass in Corning, New York because it was only a short drive from the park. There is a billboard advertising the Corning Museum of Glass in Williamsport. I pass that billboard every day on the way home from work so I thought it was about time to visit the place. But I’m not very interested in glass.

Corning Museum of Glass

The Corning Museum of Glass was better than I expected. They have an extensive collection of glass objects from throughout history including ancient Roman glass, Venetian glass, glass eyes, stained glass windows, glass paperweights, and contemporary art done in glass. They seemed to have a few international visitors. There was also a massive gift shop selling glass animals, glass paperweights, glass chess sets, and books on glass artwork. I bought a glass paperweight which was 50% off.

Crippled Bear Inn

After driving back down Route 15 I stopped in at the Cripple Bear Inn for one last adventure. Cripple Bear Inn has “local character”. The restaurant is full of hunting trophies, stuffed bears, bear skins, and deer antlers. It also serves as a biker bar so there are always a line of motorcycles lined up outside. Their food is pretty good and I always find the place packed with patrons. Today was Father’s Day and I thought the place looked half empty but then I noticed they have a courtyard and I saw the waitresses take a lot of food out to the courtyard. I ordered a prime rib sandwich with sautéed onions and melted provolone and a glass of Pepsi. Cripple Bear Inn is pretty close to my house so I could go there often but I’m rarely heading in that direction.

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Weekend In The Poconos

Today I finally made a trip to Stroudsburg PA. I have been interested in Stroudsburg for quite some time because it is as close as you can get to New York City while still being in Pennsylvania. Stroudsburg might be the ideal city for me. If I lived in Stroudsburg I would enjoy a low cost of living while being able to make trips to New York City as often as I want. It would cut two hours from the travel time. I have seen the signs for the Stroudsburg exits on every bus trip to New York City. As a matter of fact, my next trip to NYC is in just two weeks on June 28th, 2014.

Downtown Stroudsburg is impressive with an attractive main street. There are several Irish pubs and retail establishments. There were plenty of benches to sit on and you could cross the streets using modern pedestrian traffic signs. I parked on Ann Street and 9th Street where there was a small stripmall and a few farmer’s market stands set up.

Stroudsburg

I took many photos of various establishments on Main Street because I couldn’t always find any decent photos online. I took a good photo of Jock N Jill’s Sports Bar, Sarah Street Grill, Cedar’s Mediterranean Grill, and Marco Antonio’s. I walked on each side of Main Street twice to make sure I had plenty of photos to use for my custom travel guide. I arrived in Stroudsburg at around 9:00 a.m. so I had to wait until 10:00 a.m. for most stores to be open. At 10:15 a.m. I went into Carroll & Carroll Booksellers because I can never resist a bookstore. I bought a two volume set of the Italian playwright Dario Fo’s plays, a rare find, but it was expensive, almost $40.00. I wanted to buy a copy of the local newspaper, the Pocono Record, but I had quite a struggle with a newspaper vending machine so I had to go into a corner tobacco shop to buy a newspaper for further research.

Sarah Street Grill

I was going to have lunch at a downtown restaurant, Marco Antonio’s, but it didn’t open until noon so I decided to skip it. When I returned to my car with my books and newspaper, I cut short my stay in downtown Stroudsburg and proceeded to follow my detailed instructions on how to drive to the Frazetta Art Museum in East Stroudsburg. It was an annoyingly complicated route but fortunately Google Street View helped me to plan my route. I had to cross Pocono Creek, drive through East Stroudsburg, and drive quite a ways along Milford Road.

The Frazetta Art Museum was an amazing discovery I made while researching my trip. Frank Frazetta was an artist famous for his fantasy artwork used for pulp paperback book covers. I am quite familiar with his artwork for the Edgar Rice Burroughs books, especially the John Carter of Mars series, and his many Conan the Barbarian book covers. The art museum has the original paintings for these book covers in livid color. They even had many Edgar Rice Burroughs and Conan the Barbarian paperback books on display. This art museum is a must for any science fiction or fantasy fan and it was especially appealing to me because I have such fond memories of those paperback book covers. It is amazing that such a nifty museum was only two hours drive away from me and I never knew about it until now. This just goes to show how worthwhile it can be to explore your home state.

Frazetta Art Museum

I was the only visitor at the Frazetta Art Museum and I think it was Frank Frazetta’s son who welcomed me. I think the museum has only been open for a month. I hope they get enough visitors to keep the place open. After leaving the art museum I did stop in at Pocono Candles but after that I just wanted to go home so I found my way to Interstate 80. I regret not spending the entire day in Stroudsburg but there didn’t seem to be much more for me to do there.

To make up for my early departure, I forced myself to make a detour in Danville and finally visited Mom’s Dutch Kitchen, a rustic restaurant which I’ve often seen on bus trips to New York City because the bus would pick up passengers across the highway from this restaurant. Mom’s Dutch Kitchen serves PA Dutch cuisine so I ordered a breakfast platter with scrapple. The scrapple was surprisingly good. Scrapple is usually something to avoid eating, but it is a genuine regional specialty. I’m pleased that I am making progress in my exploration of the region. It will definitely help me the next time I need to look for a job.

Mom's Dutch Kitchen

I plan to continue my research on Stroudsburg PA. I may even make more trips to the Pocono area. In order to establish a relationship with the Poconos, I plan to look for a web development client in Stroudsburg. There does not appear to be much IT work in the area, but I will dig real deep to find the key to moving to this city.

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Last Day In Venice

By my sixth and last day in Venice I had run out of things to do. I had done all the things listed on my itinerary. I wanted to do less walking this day but I still had to leave the hotel while my room was being cleaned. The first thing I did was walk up Calle Fabbri to see how to reach the Rialto Bridge that way. I should mention that this street had many modern stores. It was a narrow alley but the stores looked similar to what you would find in a mall. I found this aspect of Venice to be especially surreal. Venice was like the fusion of a shopping mall with cramped medieval streets.

I had to find something more substantial to do so I took a vaporetto to the San Samuele stop (line 2) and waited a half hour for Palazzo Grassi to open. Palazzo Grassi is a museum of contemporary art. I was the first visitor of the day so I wandered the empty galleries all alone except for the museum staff who made me slightly nervous. The first thing I saw was an immense white room designed to give no sense of perspective. You were allowed to walk into this white void but I decided not to. There was also some artwork made from neon tubes and a giant video of a nuclear explosion, the usual conceptual art crap. I liked the special exhibit of black and white photos better. This was L’Illusione della Luce e Irving Penn. I’m not familiar with the major photographers so I  will have to google Irving Penn. His work has been exhibited internationally, and continues to inform the art of photography. Well that is certainly true since I saw his work exhibited in Venice! Penn’s repertoire also includes ethnographic photographs from around the world. True, I saw many photos of tribes people. I was most pleased to see his photograph of Tennessee Williams.

Grand Canal

After leaving Palazzo Grassi I took a vaporetto to the Accademia stop and found Campo Santa Margherita where I had a cappuccino at a small cafe. I had to go inside to pay for my drink. Then I took a vaporetto to the Ca d’Oro stop and walked along Strada Nova. Strada Nova is a long street lined with stores in a part of Venice I had not seen yet. I saw a statue of Paola Sarpi which I had not encountered in my research. I found a restaurant that appeared to cater to tourists and ordered salmon and prosecco. The waiter put a basket of bread on my table and some sparrows began to fly onto the table to eat the bread. I found this very amusing and even some tourists passing by noticed it and had a laugh. There was a street performer nearby who was painted entirely in gold and wearing a top hat, one of those living statues. Why would anyone want to stand stock still in the hot sun for just a few coins? I was given a carafe of prosecco which was half full and I drank the entire thing which left me slightly drunk.

Paolo Sarpi

After lunch I walked back to the Rialto Bridge area and crossed the bridge to return to Piazza San Marco. With nothing better to do I went in search of a square I had not seen, Campo Santa Maria Formosa. I walked pass the laundromat where I had washed my clothes so I took some more photos of that. When I got back to Piazza San Marco I spent some time taking carefully composed artistic photos since it was my last day. I took lots of photos where the streetlights fill the foreground and something like the bell tower fills the background. I then found the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo again to take more photos in better lighting and I located the Teatro Goldini again. I don’t think I had anything for dinner on my last day in Venice.

Streetlight

I might as well describe how I left Venice the next day. I forgot to mention that I did go to a ticket booth near the Royal Gardens to buy an Alilaguna ticket for the airport for 15 Euros. I bought that ticket the day before because I was worried that the ticket booth would be closed early in the morning, as in fact it was. I checked out of my hotel just before 7:00 a.m. and did not have breakfast because I wanted to leave plenty of time to reach the Marco Polo airport. I dragged my suitcase across the Piazza San Marco to the San Marco vaporetto stop which also has a pontoon for Alilaguna boats. I had to wait quite a while before a boat showed up. The crew just shouted aeroporto to make sure you knew they were going to the airport. It took over an hour for the boat to reach the Marco Polo airport because there were several stops along the way. The boat even went to the islands Lido and Murano before reaching the airport dock. I was a little worried I would not make it in time for my flight but my plane did not leave until 11:35 a.m. so I had plenty of time to get there.

After arriving at Marco Polo airport there was a long walk to reach the terminals. I just followed everyone else but it was a long ways to drag my luggage. Once inside I had to check in and get my plane ticket. I checked one bag in so I only had to lug my carry on satchel around. Then there was passport control and security which was slightly easier than security in American airports. By this time I was starving but I had time to get something to eat so I went upstairs and found a Bricco Cafè. I had a cotto baguette (prosciutto or ham) and a bibita media (a medium drink). There was a bookstore up on the second level which tempted me but I did not buy anything. I had to wait at the gate for a long time but I did get one of the few seats. As usual, they loaded the plane by zones and my zone was practically the last one called. I saw they were conducting random security checks of passengers but fortunately I was not stopped. The man in front of me dropped his coat in the walkway, or jetway I think they are called.

During the flight the pilot keep pointing out things we could see out the windows like the Alps or the Eiffel Tower. He was the chattiest pilot I’ve ever encountered. I was able to finish watching the movie Wolverine during the flight. That movie makes me want to make a trip to Tokyo. I also watched Captain Phillips which was sort of travel related and most of Goodfellas which I didn’t particularly like.

When I finally got off the plane at Philadelphia International Airport I had to go through passport control. I can never remember this process so I will try to describe it. There were several lines for the booths and I remember there was a scrolling LED sign indicating which line you should be in for US citizens. We were given a U.S. Customs and Border Protection Declaration Form 6059B on the plane before we even took off so I already had that filled out. Then I went to the baggage claim area and found my checked bag. Then I went through customs which was just a line where you handed them the form.

I had considerable trouble finding a bus for the Economy Parking Lot. I will have to study the airport layout some more because when I left the terminal I had no idea where I was. I must have walked all the way around the terminals before I found my way to the familiar F terminal where I got on a shuttle for the Economy Parking Lot. Parking for two weeks cost me $165.00 which I paid with a credit card. One thing I had studied very carefully was how to get on the right highway from the Economy Parking Lot exit. It requires a difficult left turn across traffic and then another immediate left turn onto Interstate 95 South. I almost followed my directions but I did not turn left soon enough so I had to turn around. I hate driving around Philadelphia because I always make driving mistakes there! But after that I managed to make the correct turns to reach the Pennsylvania Turnpike.

Except for the blisters on my feet, my trip to Italy was perfect. There were only a few slight annoyances which is about the same for domestic trips. I made some improvement in my travel smarts by doing some laundry on this trip. But I still need to work on my Philadelphia International Airport knowledge.

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Venice Day Five

On the fifth day of my stay in Venice I took the vaporetto to the San Toma stop. I found the Scuola Grande di San Rocco but the woman in the booth told me it was closed. She did not speak English well enough to explain why it was closed. That was the only instance of a complete communication breakdown. Of course I saw the nearby church, Chiesa di San Rocco, but I didn’t attempt to go inside.

I wandered around the San Polo sestiere for quite awhile until I found one of the Chorus churches, sixteen churches managed by Associazione per le Chiese del Patriarcato de Venezia.  I know it was a Chorus church because they gave me a map but its hard to identify which church it was. I’ll have to guess it was San Giacomo dell’Orio because I remember thinking I had strayed too far north. According to my photos I definitely came across the church Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato, vulgo San Zandegola which would not have been far from that other church.

Frari

I also saw Campo San Polo and Chiesa di San Polo which I did not try to enter. And then I found the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari which was definitely on my list of places to visit. I saw Titian’s masterpiece, Assumption, at the Frari and the tomb of Antonio Canova.

Eventually I found Carlo Goldoni’s House but it was very difficult to find. This was another museum covered by the VeneziaUnica City Pass. Carlo Goldoni was Venice’s greatest playwright in the 18th Century, the 1700s. I have only read one of his plays in translation, The Coffee Shop. The museum was fairly small with just a few rooms but it had a puppet theater which was interesting.

Casa di Carlo Goldoni

After leaving Carlo Goldoni’s House I was ready to get out of the San Polo sestiere since I was getting too lost there. At some point I found a farmacia and bought more aspirina. I needed to keep taking aspirin due to the blisters on my feet. After crossing the Rialto Bridge I found a vending machine where I bought a bottle of Coke because I was very thirsty. Unfortunately the bottle of Coke erupted on me when I opened it because the bottle had been shaken as it fell in the vending machine. I had to go back to the hotel to get sticky coke off my fingers. I remember one of the hotel staff surprised me in my room because it was too early in the day.

Campo Santa Margherita

When I went back out I went to Pier Dickens on Campo Santa Margherita where I ordered four cheese pasta and a seafood salad. After lunch I walked all the way to the San Marta vaporetto stop. This was clear across the Dorsoduro sestiere so I must have walked very far west from Campo Santa Margherita.  I saw some cruise ships docked along Calle Dietro Ai Magazzini and there were even cars in this part of Venice. But I had strayed far from the tourist areas. I took a vaporetto to Piazzale Roma and from there I got on another vaporetto to Stazione FS Ferrovie. Finally I got on a vaporetto which went down the Grand Canal to San Marco. I was done for the day because all that walking was torture for my aching feet.

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Venice Day Four

I began my fourth day in Venice with breakfast at the hotel. I had yogurt, cheese and a small croissant, coffee with milk. I took a vaporetto to the Accademia stop and quickly found the entrance to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum because I used Google Street View the previous evening to figure out where it is located. I made sure to take several photos of the entrance because it bugs me when I have to hunt for something despite my efforts to be well prepared. But then I had to wait on a park bench at Campo San Vio until 10:00 a.m. for the museum to open.

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

Although I would have visited the Peggy Guggenheim Museum anyways since I like modern art, I had an additional reason to be interested in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Luisa Casati, an eccentric Italian heiress, muse, and patroness of the arts in early 20th century, used to live there. I read a book about her life, Infinite Variety: The Life and Legend of the Marchesa Casati. I took a few photos of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum garden before wandering through the galleries. I also went out on the terrace for the view of the Grand Canal. I didn’t find any books in the gift shop that I had to buy.

After that I proceeded to yet another museum, Ca’ Rezzonico. I was able to use my Venice City Pass again so I really got some value out of it. At Ca’ Rezzonico I saw many rooms in the palace and there was an extensive art gallery of old paintings. I only found Emma Ciardi’s work striking enough to memorize her name.

From Ca’ Rezzonico I was able to find Campo San Barnana. This is the square where Katharine Hepburn falls into the canal in the movie,  Summertime. I liked that movie because it was about a lonely American on vacation in Venice. You could see the shop on the square where she buys a Venetian glass but it is a magic shop now. I also found the bridge nearby, the Ponte dei Pugni, and after crossing the bridge I found Campo Santa Margherita. There are many restaurants on Campo Santa Margherita so I had lunch at Pier Dickens. I ordered sardines and spaghetti with cuttlefish ink. It was a messy meal but probably the most authentic Venetian cuisine I ate in Venice.

Campo San Barnana

After lunch I went further up the Grand Canal, pass the Rialto Bridge to Ca d’Oro. This museum was a little disappointing but you do get a good view of the Grand Canal from the palazzo’s Byzantine loggia. When I left Ca d’Oro I wandered around until I found Santi Giovanni e Paolo, a large church, which I entered. This church has a vast interior which is filled with funerary monuments and paintings. From there I eventually found my way back to Piazza San Marco.

Ca d'Oro

I bought some gelato in a cone on my way to the hotel but walked pass it to find the Goldini bookstore where I bought a Touring Editore travel guide on Amsterdam. Amsterdam will be my next destination in Europe but it may be several years before I can afford another extravagant trip. I must have returned to the hotel to put the book in my room and then I went out again to have dinner at a restaurant on the Riva degli Schiavoni. I just choose a tourist restaurant at random and had a pizza and a lemon soda. The final landmark I searched for that day was the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, famous for its spiral staircase. It was not far from my hotel and there were signs pointing the way.

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Venice Day Three

For my third day in Venice the plan was to visit some art museums. I had breakfast at the hotel again; yogurt, scrambled eggs, cheese and slices of meat. Coffee with milk. I took a vaporetto to the Accademia stop but it went to Lido first because it was going in the wrong direction. At the Gallerie dell’Accademia I had to buy a ticket since this museum is not included on the VeneziaUnica City Pass. I saw Titian’s very last painting which was memorable to me since I had read the book, Titian: The Last Days by Mark Hudson, which describes this painting in detail. I also found Giorgione’s painting The Tempest although I almost missed it because it was located in a large side gallery that I only found after going through the entire museum.

Gallerie dell'Accademia

I then went to the Ca’ Pesaro where I was able to gain admittance with the VeneziaUnica City Pass. I took the vaporetto to San Stae and then walked to the museum since you can’t enter it directly from the Grand Canal. The Ca’ Pesaro has a decent collection of modern art. I saw artwork by Andy Warhol including his brillo boxes and a few paintings by Giorgio de Chirico. I also saw artwork by artists I’ve never heard of, like Miroslav Kraljevic, a Croatian modernist. I liked his expressionist paintings which seemed very dark and sophisticated. Unfortunately the Ca’ Pesaro International Gallery of Art’s most famous painting, Gustav Klimt’s Judith II (Salome), was on loan so I did not get to see it.

Ca' Pesaro

The Oriental Art Museum is on the upper floor of Ca’ Pesaro. I wasn’t expecting much from this museum but it turned out to be genuinely impressive. The collection of Japanese decorative arts was substantial and of high quality. I don’t think I’ve ever seen oriental art on this scale. The samurai swords alone must have numbered in the hundreds and there was every other kind of Asian craftsmanship on display. Most people probably don’t go to Venice to see Asian art, but if you are into that kind of thing then you would not want to miss this museum.

I liked the Ca’ Pesaro International Gallery of Art so much that I bought a museum guide to help me to remember what I saw since you were not allowed to take photos. I had lunch in the cafeteria, a ham and cheese sandwich and a Pepsi. But the neat thing is that they have tables with a view of the Grand Canal so I could watch gondolas and vaporetti go by as I ate lunch.

Santa Maria della Salute

I took the vaporetto back to Piazza San Marco and tried to go see the church San Zaccaria but it was closed. I went back to my hotel room to drop off my book, take some aspirin, and change my socks. The blisters were still bothering me. I then went out again and took the vaporetto to Santa Maria della Salute. There is a vaporetto stop right in front of the church. Fortunately the church was open and I took photos in the interior. I also paid to see the sacristy where there is a painting by Tintoretto, Marriage at Cana. After leaving the Salute I tried to find the way to The Peggy Guggenheim Museum even though it was not open on Tuesdays. Unfortunately I could not find the entrance although later on I realized that I had walked right pass it. I have several travel guides on Venice and none of them tell you how to find the entrance to this museum, not even the Rick Steve’s book. They all seem to imply that you can enter from the terrace on the Grand Canal but that is not the case.

Pensione Wildner

After giving up on finding The Peggy Guggenheim Museum I took the vaporetto from Accademia to St. Mark’s Square. I had supper at Hotel Wildner’s restaurant on the Riva degli Schiavoni. I was pleased to eat there because the writer Henry James stayed at the Pensione Wildner. I was going to read his novel The Wings of the Dove before my trip to Venice but I did not have time after adding Rome to my trip. I had a glass of prosecco, sparkling water, and an excellent pasta dish at Ristorate Wildner. Before I returned to my hotel room, I found an ATM on Merceria and withdrew another 150 Euros.

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Venice Day Two

I began my second day in Venice with breakfast at the hotel. I had yogurt, scrambled eggs and bacon. Coffee was something they served and I had a cappuccino. I planned to visit several museums on Piazza San Marco since it would be easy to find everything in the vicinity.

First I tried to visit the Correr Museum at 9:00 a.m. but it was not opened promptly. So I went up the Campanile instead but I was wearing the wrong pair of glasses. I have prescription glasses and reading glasses that I use when working on the computer. I accidentally left the hotel wearing my reading glasses. There is a small building located at the base of the bell tower known as the Loggetta. I was unable to find any decent photos of the Loggetta online so I made sure to take lots of photos of it. It bugs me when I have to spend a lot of time searching for a photo of something while researching my trip. The Campanile gives you an excellent aerial view of Venice so I took lots of photos. There was a vending machine up there so I bought a bottle of water.

Campanile View

I then tried to find a laundromat based on directions I found online. I only packed three shirts for my trip and they were getting kind of grungy by the second week. Unfortunately the laundromat was hard to find so eventually I gave up. But I did find a farmacia and bought some more stuff for the blisters on my feet. I went back to my hotel to get my prescription glasses.

I returned to the Correr Museum which was finally open. I also saw visited the National Archaeological Museum and the Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which are connected to the Correr Museum. I used my VeneziaUnica City Pass which I bought online. I just had a print out of the PDF but that got me into many museums so I got my money’s worth. At the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana there was a special exhibit, Il Mondo Fantastico di Fosca. The “Fantastical World of Fosca” was a set of anthropomorphic animal drawings illustrating the history of the library. Fosca must be a contemporary Venetian artist. http://www.foscaworld.com/biography.html I only took one photo in the National Archaeological Museum where there was an Egyptian mummy in a small room which looked secluded enough for sneaking a photo.

After than I went to the Doge’s Palace which is also a museum. My VeneziaUnica City Pass got me into the Doge’s Palace as well. I saw the courtyard which you can only see with admission and the Giants’ Staircase, although that was roped off. I’m not quite sure if I saw everything in the Doge’s Palace but I did find the Doge’s Apartments and the Senate Chamber. I followed a large tour group, French I think, and crossed the Bridge of Sighs, where I got a view out the window, and saw the prisons.

Giants' Staircase

Next I visited St. Mark’s Basilica which is free to enter since it is a church. But I did pay to see the Treasury, the Pala d’oro, and the St. Mark’s Museum with access to the roof. You were not allowed to take photos but I saw many tourists disregarding the signs so I took a few photos as well. Of course, you can take as many photos as you like from the roof. I saw the original Triumphal Quadriga or Horses of St Mark’s in the museum. I bought a Venice travel guide in English at the St. Mark’s Museum store, mostly for the map which was not very detailed.

I had lunch at Caffè Florian. Caffè Florian is super expensive but very classy. They even charge for the musicians playing if you sit outside, supplemento musica 6 Euros. I ordered club sandwiches and peach ice tea. The whole thing cost me 32 Euros. But I think it is worth it to get an essential Venetian experience. Just don’t take all your meals on the Piazza San Marco.

Effe Erre

After lunch I made another attempt to locate the laundromat Effe Erre and finally found my way to it. I rushed back to my hotel and packed my carry on bag with dirty clothes. Then I retraced my steps to the laundromat. Some locals or maybe young backpackers helped me with the washing machine. I don’t think I’ve ever gone to a laundromat in my life so I had no idea how the procedure may work. The washing machines and dryers in Europe are very modern. You have to buy soap from a dispenser and then put it into the top of the washing machine. There were instructions in English so I might have eventually figured it out on my own. It took about an hour to wash and dry my clothes. They didn’t even wind up totally clean or dry. But I was immensely proud of myself for getting this taken care of. This was a huge advance in my travel smarts. Of course, I had to return to my hotel to drop off my carry on bag before going out again.

Venetian Laundromat

I went to Harry’s Bar and ordered a Bellini and grilled ham and cheese sandwiches. The Bellini alone cost 16.50 Euros which is outrageous for a small drink. My total bill was 32.40 Euros. I only went to Harry’s Bar because it is a famous establishment and I wanted to be able to say I’ve been there and done that.

Harry’s Bar

For the rest of the afternoon I walked far to the west until I found the Ponte dell’Accademia. I came across the Museo della Musica which has free admission. I saw lots of musical instruments in the museum, mostly string instruments like violins and cellos. I bought an opera DVD, La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi, but I have not watched it yet. This opera was first performed on 6 March 1853 at the La Fenice opera house in Venice.

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Venice Day One

Sunday was my last day in Rome and my first day in Venice. So the initial goal for the day was to get from Rome to Venice. I checked out of my hotel in Rome around 8:00 p.m. without taking advantage of the continental breakfast. I had to pay a hotel tax in cash when I checked out but it was only two Euros per night I think so it only came to 14 Euros. I then went to the Roma Termini train station to wait for my train to Venice. I didn’t have to drag my luggage very far because my hotel was very close to the train station. It was very convenient. While waiting for my train a female beggar with no nose pestered me so I gave her a coin. She was probably one of those Romani gypsies I’ve seen on every trip to Europe.

I had to wait until 9:50 a.m. for my train to Venice. I was way early but I did not want to miss my train. I waited until the departure board showed which platform it was arriving at. Boarding the train was much easier than I expected. First I had to find the right carriage which turned out to be the very last one. Then I just had to find my seat. There was plenty of storage racks for my luggage which I kept near me. Nobody said a word to me until long after we left the station. The train announcements were made in English and Italian. I got a free drink and a bag of cookies as a first class passenger. Eventually the conductor came through the train and only had to see my print out with its booking number. It was a high speed train and cost me $121.00 which I paid to ItaliaRail before my trip to Italy. It took most of the morning to reach Venice. The train went through many tunnels and I saw a bit of the Tuscan countryside on the way. Unfortunately I did not meet Angelina Jolie on the train to Venice like in the movie The Tourist.

When the train arrived in the Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia my immediate concern was getting to my hotel. I didn’t stop to take any photos or to look around until I got that done. I bought a €50/7-day pass for the Actv and then found a vaporetto heading towards Piazza San Marco. I had intended to go down the Grand Canal but unfortunately that vaporetto went down the Canale della Giudecca. It even made a stop at the Lido before I finally arrived at Piazza San Marco an hour later. This wasn’t too much of a problem since I could not check into my hotel until 3:00 p.m. I dragged my luggage across Piazza San Marco and found Calle dei Fabbri, an alley just to the left of Gran Caffè Quadri. There were several twists and turns to Calle dei Fabbri before I found my hotel, Antica Locanda al Gambero, which translates to “Ancient Inn at Gambero”. I was uncertain as to where the hotel entrance was because there is also a restaurant there but I found it around the back between the restaurant tables. I was able to check in right away and a porter carried one of my bags up to the fourth floor. I gave him a coin for that.

My room was much nicer than my room in Rome. It was a bit small and cramped but it had its own balcony. Unfortunately there was nothing to see out there except some roof tops. The room lighting was still a bit dim but not too bad. There was a room safe in the armoire but I didn’t use it. I thought the room was rather stylish and a bit fancy. However, the climb to the fourth floor was very tiring for me. There was no elevator. During my stay I tried the television to see what Italian TV was like but I could only get a few stations. There was a SKY cable box which may have gotten more channels but I could not figure out how to use it. I wasn’t there to watch TV anyway.

Piazza San Marco

After unpacking a bit and freshening up, which certainly meant changing my padded socks to give my feet a fresh start, I went out to take some photos. I should mention that I had to turn my key in at the desk every time I went out. I first encountered this procedure at the bed and breakfast I stayed at in Montreal. I easily found my way back to Piazza San Marco where I took photos of the Campanile (the bell tower), the Loggetta (the elegant small building used as the entrance to the Campanile), the Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower), St. Mark’s Basilica which was unfortunately half covered in scaffolding, and the Doge’s Palace. I then walked along the Riva degli Schiavoni and crossed the  Ponte della Paglia where I saw the Bridge of Sighs. I also saw some famous hotels; Hotel Danieli, Londra Palace Hotel, and the Pensione Wildner. There are lots of tourist stalls along Riva degli Schiavoni and I bought a map at one of them. The map was in Dutch and not quite as detailed as I would like. My next trip to Europe will be to Amsterdam so I didn’t mind having a map in Dutch. I walked all the way to the Arsenal before turning back. Going far in the other direction I found the Giardinetti Reali (Royal Gardens) a small park near Piazza San Marco and Harry’s Bar.

The Rialto Bridge

After that I must have tried to find my way closer to Santa Maria della Salute because my next photos show Chiesa di San Moisè followed by Teatro La Fenice. Then I must have gone to Campo Manin and even found my way to the Rialto Bridge which I crossed to find the San Giacomo di Rialto and the Hunchback of the Rialto, a granite statue of a hunchback. After that I went back over the Rialto Bridge and found Campo San Bartolomeo with its statue of Carlo Goldoni. From there I found my way back to Piazza San Marco.

I think I had dinner someplace on the Riva degli Schiavoni where I ate an entire pizza pie since I had not eaten much all day. Then I returned to my hotel. So I managed to see practically all the major sights in one afternoon in Venice. If you just want to photograph a few landmarks then you probably can do Venice in one day.

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Last Day In Rome

For my last day in Rome I didn’t want to stray far from my hotel because the blisters on my feet were very painful. I had to take an aspirin every few hours. The first thing I did was get cash from an ATM in the Roma Termini station because I would need to pay a hotel tax in cash the next morning.

I then walked to the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme which isn’t far from the Roma Termini station. I had some trouble getting through the metal detector but eventually they let me in. This museum has four floors and I think I went to each floor. The bottom floor had a Roman coin collection with some Papal coins too. In this museum I saw the famous Boxer at Rest, the Discus Thrower, a gruesome mummy, and the frescoes from the villa of Livia. There was a special exhibit on Monsters. Fantastic Creatures of Fear and Myth.

The Boxer at Rest

After that I intended to visit the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore but a wedding was taking place so I did not go inside. I think I got a photo of the bride and groom entering the church. Instead of that I went to  San Pietro in Vincoli where I saw the chains of St. Peter, the tombs with skeletons, and Michelangelo’s Moses. I used a Euro coin to light up Michelangelo’s Moses since nobody else wanted to spend anything. When I backtracked my way to Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore I stopped into a Casa del Rosario store where I bought a rosary and a cheap crucifix as gifts. Next I headed for Palazzo del Freddo for gelato. I passed through Rome’s Chinatown and saw many shops along the way there. Somewhere along Via Napoleone III, near the train station, I stopped in at a restaurant and had a pizza for lunch. I think the pizza was covered in prosciutto crudo, a common pizza topping. I then returned to the hotel to rest my feet.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

I didn’t want to waste my last day in Rome so I walked north to Piazza della Repubblica just to wander around but I eventually visited the Baths of Diocletian. I used the same ticket I got at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme but could not get into the Rodin special exhibit. The best part of this museum was the inner courtyard which was lined with hundreds of ancient statues.

Michelangelo's Moses

That evening I had my last meal at Ristorante Donati, mixed cheese and an espresso.

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Rome Day Six

The sixth day of my week in Rome got off to a bad start when the cashier at the Farmacrimi Stazione Termini only gave me a few Euro coins in change for a 50 Euro bill I gave her to pay for $17.02 in purchases. That pissed me off for several hours. Never give somebody a larger bill than is necessary. I took Metro Line A in the direction of Battistini to Barberini Station. My goal for this day was just to locate a few more landmarks in the center of Rome. First I went back to the Trevi Fountain because there were other things in the area on my list. I found the Teatro Quirino which is now named after Vittorio Gassman, one of Italy’s best stage and film actors. I liked him in “The Scent Of A Woman” so much that I looked for more of his films. He appeared with Sophia Loren in the film Questi fantasmi which is based on a play by the playwright Eduardo De Filippo. I read a few of Eduardo De Filippo’s plays in translation in preparation for my trip. He is not well-known in the United States or the theater here but I saw theater posters in Rome and Venice advertising performances of his plays. You need to see things like that to establish the significance of a writer. This is the sort of detailed cultural exploration I like to do for my major trips.

Teatro Quirino

I then found Giolitti and ordered a gelato; a cone with coffee, apple, and raspberry scoops. You have to try some gelato while you are in Rome! The procedure for getting a gelato was another minor trial. First you place an order at the cashier and pay to get a ticket which you take to the ice cream counter. I should mention that you get a receipt for everything in Italy. I mean every little thing. Buy a can of soda at a food cart, you get a small receipt. Pay a fee at a church to see something, you get a little receipt like a ticket. It is the law that you must receive a receipt for every financial transaction. You used to be fined if you did not take a receipt but now only the vendor gets fined. I’ve even received a receipt for things I’ve ordered over the Internet from Italy!

Giolitti

I also visited the Pantheon again because it is worth seeing twice. I went inside and took more photos and marveled at its grandeur. Just think, I’ve been inside the Pantheon which has stood for thousands of years and has been seen by illustrious men for centuries. I saw many of the great artworks pictured in my World Art textbooks which I never expected to see in real life.

There were several Catholic churches I wanted to visit but the first church I came across was not on my list, Sant Ignazio di Loyalo. Built in Baroque style between 1626 and 1650. I definitely saw the “Gloria di San Luigi Gonzaga” by P. Legros and the Monument to Pope Gregory XV. Part of the purpose of these blog entries is to record what I saw, but could not immediately identify. There was also a curious model of a round church which may not exist. I’ve never seen anything like it.

It was on this day that I entered the Santa Maria sopra Minerva where I saw the tomb of Fra Angelico. After that I entered yet another church, San Luigi dei Francesi. This is a French church and there was a large tour group outside. Inside there was a choral group singing and being filmed by someone with a video camera. However, the big attraction in this church was the three paintings by Caravaggio. I’m pleased that I managed to see so many Caravaggios on my trip. I remember there was a sign warning about pickpockets near the chapel with the Caravaggios.

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

Another church I sought out was Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza but I could only photograph the exterior because the church was closed that day. Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza is famous for its architecture. After that I must have returned to the Piazza Navona to get my bearings and found my way to Campo de Fiori, another famous square I wanted to see. Campo de Fiori was filled with market stalls so I found it difficult to get a good look at the Giordano Bruno monument. I didn’t buy anything at the market although I did notice a Libreria Fahrenheit 451 bookstore which tempted me.

I had lunch at Caffè Bianco, which is near the Campo de Fiori but not actually on the square. I ordered a large ball of Buffalo mozzarella with ham. I did not particularly care for this but I saw other tourists ordering large pizzas which seemed too much for me. After lunch I went to the Galleria Alberto Sordi and entered La Feltrinelli where I bought a DVD of “La Grande Bellezza“. There was a 2×1 special which they encouraged me to take advantage of but I declined. I kind of regretted that but buying anything was awkward. La Grande Bellezza is a great movie. I have watched it now that I am home. It has many scenes featuring the landmarks of Rome and I liked the main character because he was a literary writer and a sardonic observer of life.

The last landmark on my list was the Adriano Temple, the ruins of the Temple of Hadrian. All that remains of the temple is some columns embedded into the Rome stock exchange building but I wanted to see it anyways.  I headed off in the wrong direction at first, but eventually I managed to find the Adriano Temple. Finally I took Metro line A in the direction of Anagnina from Barberini Station to Termini Station. That evening I ate at Ristorante Donati yet again and ordered the cold seafood salad and artichoke.

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Rome Day Five

My fifth day in Rome was a Thursday and my goal was to visit the Capitoline Museums since it was closed on the day I first tried to visit it. I took subway line B in the direction of Laurentina to Colosseo. I walked along the Imperial Forums and saw Trajan’s Column. I definitely saw the Temple of Mars Ultor because I have a photo of it. I walked pass the Monument of Victor Emmanuel II and climbed the Capitoline Hill cordonata to the Piazza del Campidoglio. I saw the equestrian statue of emperor Marcus Aurelius of course and the two massive ancient statues of Castor and Pollux. I had to buy a ticket but the ticket line was very short.

One of the first things I saw within the Capitoline Museums was the fragments of Constantine’s colossal statue. This is one of the iconic images of Rome used for the cover of my book on the history of Italy. I also saw the original bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius,  the bronze she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus, the bust of Commodus as Hercules, the famous statue of the boy with a thorn (Spinario) which was part of a special exhibit so no photos, and the statue of Pope Innocent X.

Constantine's Colossal Statue

I almost didn’t make it into the Palazzo Nuovo because I could not find the underground passageway. I had to ask someone on the museum staff where it was. In this wing of the museum I saw the Dying Gaul sculpture, the colossal statue of Oceanus, and the Egyptian room just off the main courtyard with two monkeys, a granite crocodile and two sphinxes. I also found the mosaic with theatrical masks. So I’m pretty sure I saw all the major artwork in this museum but I should have been more prepared. According to my photos, I must have walked behind the Palazzo Senatorio and found the terrace, where you get an excellent view of the Roman Forums, before I went to the Palazzo Nuovo.

Roman Forums

After leaving the museum I returned to the nearby Theatre of Marcellus. I saw the ancient Roman columns embedded in the side of the church San Nicola in Carcere and eventually I found the Porticus Octaviae but it was covered in scaffolding. From there I walked to the ancient Forum Boarium by the Tiber River where I saw the Temple of Portunus and the Temple of Hercules Victor. The church Santa Maria in Cosmedin which has the “Mouth of Truth” is across the street so I stood in line to take a photo of that. Everyone else was with someone to take their photo with their hand in the “Mouth of Truth” but I was alone so I just took a photo of “Mouth of Truth”. There was an attendant to make sure everyone only took one photo to keep the line moving. I also entered the church and I remember there were signs expressly prohibiting dogs. I bought a coke from a food stand near the church because it was much hotter in Rome than it was back home.

Mouth of Truth

I then walked across Ponte Palatino and saw Tiber Island and Pons Aemilius again. I also revisited Taverna Priscinula Pizzeria and ordered that same pizza, four cheese pizza with truffle sauce which I liked so much. I drank too much wine and became a little tipsy. I walked pass the Open Door Bookshop again but this time I went inside and bought a French novel at random, L’amande by Nedjma, which turns out to be an erotic novel “The Almond” written by an observant Muslim woman in contemporary North Africa. I then found the church Santa Maria in Trastevere which I entered to see its famous 13th-century mosaics. This church can be seen in the Italian film Scent of A Woman starring Vittorio Gassman, one of the better films I saw in preparation for my trip.

The Open Door Bookshop

I didn’t spend any more time in Trastevere. I walked back across the Ponte Palatino and along the Circus Maximus until I reached the metro station. I returned to the Termini station where I used an ATM and bought a can of Bavaria Holland Lemon Malt, a non-alcoholic drink, from a vending machine. At first I was surprised that beer was sold from vending machines but then I noticed that it was non-alcoholic. I had supper at Ristorante Donati. That evening I had spaghetti with bacon (Carbonara) and eggplant with cheese.

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Rome Day Four

My goal on the fourth day of my week in Rome was to see the Spanish Steps and to visit the Galleria Borghese. I had a reservation for the Galleria Borghese at 1:00 p.m. so the day’s planning had to work around that.

But first I went to the Despar grocery store and the Farmacrimi farmacia in the Roma Termini to buy some over-the-counter medicines and health supplies. I bought aspirin, cough drops (tosse sedativo), antacid, and stuff for my blisters (Compeed brand). I don’t remember what I bought at Despar but it was a single item that I could put in my pocket which is why I was able to visit Farmacrimi afterwards. It was hard to find these items and I had to look up the Italian words the evening before. On my next trip I will do more research on pharmacies.

I took the metro Line A to the Spagna Station. Spagna is Italian for Spanish so it is actually the subway station near the Spanish Steps. It was hard to figure out where the metro entrance is located using the few photos I could find online so I made sure to take a few photos to show its location relative to the Spanish Steps. I was too early for the Keats-Shelley Memorial House or Babington’s Tea Rooms so I walked down the Via dei Condotti. I walked pass Antico Caffè Greco but I didn’t go inside. I just took a few photos of this famous café. On my way to Piazza del Popolo I found the museum Casa di Goethe but I didn’t go there because it is of more interest to Germans. After taking many photos of the Piazza del Popolo it was time to return to the Spanish Steps where the Keats-Shelley Memorial House would be open by then. I encountered a large group of teenagers entering the museum so I decided to wait until later and went over to Babington’s Tea Rooms instead.

Babington's Tea Rooms

At Babington’s Tea Rooms I ordered a traditional English Breakfast. This tea room was practically an institution on the Grand Tour but now it is popular with tourists. This was the largest meal I had in Italy and I could not finish everything. I remember I had American coffee instead of tea which I regret. Nobody came around with the check so I went up to the cashier to pay. I was kind of in a hurry to make it to the Galleria Borghese in time. After breakfast I went back to the Keats-Shelley Memorial House.

It only cost 5 Euros to visit the Keats-Shelley Memorial House but then there are only three rooms to see. I liked this museum because it was devoted to poets and the rooms were lined with books except for the bedroom of John Keats where he died. I didn’t spend much time in this museum because there wasn’t much to see and a tour group was expected.

The Keats-Shelley Memorial House

After that I decided to find the Galleria Borghese because it is located deep within a large park, the Villa Borghese. I was worried about not being on time for my reservation. I climbed the Spanish Steps and wasted some time taking photos of Rome from the road leading to the Villa Borghese since there is an excellent view from there. Although there are some signs in the Villa Borghese park it is difficult to find the Galleria Borghese. It was a long walk along many roads without always being sure I was going in the right direction. Fortunately I made it with over an hour to spare so I sat outside the Galleria Borghese until a half hour before my reservation time, 1:00 p.m. It was not obvious where the museum entrance was located. I saw several people turned away from the museum exit up a flight of stairs so I knew it was not up there. The museum entrance is actually below the staircase. I got a ticket after showing my email confirmation. I saw that they were sold out of tickets for that day and were only taking reservations for next week! So you would definitely be out of luck if you just showed up without a reservation. I had to go back outside and wait another half hour until it was time to enter the museum. I remember seeing some Germans having themselves a little picnic and I overheard a tour guide talking to some tourists in English while I waited.

I was uncertain as to where you actually enter the museum since I only saw the ticket booth when I first went in but the actual entrance is further inside there. No cameras or backpacks were allowed in the museum but I did have a camera in my pocket the whole time. Fortunately they do not search you or make you go through security. You are only allowed two hours in the museum. I spent the entire first hour on the top floor looking at old paintings and wondering where the famous sculptures were. It was not clear how to reach the bottom floor but eventually I found my way down there. This was probably the most frustrating museum to visit in Rome. I was just lucky that my visit went well. On the ground floor I saw the famous works of art which make the Galleria Borghese an essential part of any trip to Rome. I saw the Bernini sculpture Apollo and Daphne, his The Rape of Proserpina, Antonio Canova’s Pauline Bonaparte, and the four Caravaggio paintings. Caravaggio is one of the most famous painters in art history and seeing his masterpieces in Rome is considered a must.

Galleria Borghese

After leaving the Galleria Borghese I spent some time exploring the park. I saw the small Temple of Asclepius in the middle of a lake. Eventually I found the Museo Carlo Bilotti, a museum I wanted to visit because they have many paintings by Giorgio de Chirico. Visiting this museum was also slightly frustrating because there was virtually nobody there and the admission procedure was ridiculous. A man on the museum staff helped me to get a ticket. First I had to feed a 10 Euro bill into a machine to get 50 Euro coins in change. Then I had to feed 8 Euros worth of 50 Euro coins into another machine to print out a ticket. That was sixteen coins I had to feed into a machine! The museum was actually quite small and contains little of interest except for one Andy Warhol print and the Giorgio de Chirico paintings. But Giorgio de Chirico is one of my favorite painters because his work is so mysterious and metaphysical.

When I finally left the Villa Borghese park and back tracked my way to the Spanish Steps. I think I took the metro to the next stop, Piazza della Repubblica. Or did I walk to Piazza della Repubblica? No, I’m pretty sure I walked from there to the Roma Termini. I found the Fontana dell’Acqua Felice and the church Santa Maria della Vittoria which I entered to see the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa by Bernini. After returning to the Piazza della Repubblica I entered the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri which is a vast Catholic church built within the remains of a vast Roman Bath.

When I walked to Roma Termini I saw two museums which were not far from my hotel; the Baths of Diocletian (National Roman Museum) and Palazzo Massimo alle Terme which I would visit later on in the week.

I had supper at Ristorante Donati again. That evening I had pork and something fried with cheese that was really good, probably the only exceptional thing I ate there. Ristorante Donati was convenient but not someplace any foodie would want to visit.

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Rome Day Three

For my third day in Rome I had a long list of landmarks to see. I began by taking the Metro Line A from Termini Station to the Barberini Station. I easily found my way to the Trevi Fountain which was not crowded. I had precise instructions on how to find the Trevi Fountain in my notes. I then found the Galleria Alberto Sordi but it was not open yet. So I located the Column of Marcus Aurelius next. From there I found the Palazzo Montecitorio, a government building often shown in the Italian news. There was some evidence of that because I saw a RAI van parked there. After that I found the church Santa Maria Maddalena (I told you this would be a long list).

And then I came across the Pantheon. I went inside the Pantheon which is one of the best preserved ancient buildings in Rome. There is free admission because the Pantheon is essentially a church now. Behind the Pantheon is the Piazza della Minerva where the Bernini obelisk on the back of an elephant is located. The church Santa Maria sopra Minerva is also located on this square but I did not enter it on this day.

Pantheon

From there I went west to find the Piazza Navona with its three fountains. I did enter the church Sant’Agnese in Agone and saw the shrine for Saint Agnes with her skull. I think that was the first Catholic church I ventured into except for the Pantheon.

North of the Piazza Navona I encountered the museum Palazzo Altemps which I visited. This was one of my more awkward museum visits. I went into the wrong area and went through a scanner which was not meant for museum visitors. The Palazzo Altemps contains mostly sculptures. I saw the Grande Ludovisi Sarcophagus and the Gaul Killing Himself and His Wife. I got yelled at for taking a photo of the Gaul Killing Himself and His Wife but that may have been because it was part of a special exhibit.

After leaving the museum I found the Largo di Torre Argentina, a sunken square with the ruins of four Republican Roman temples. I took lots of photos of those ruins because they are particularly picturesque. The Teatro Argentina is also located on this square so I took a few photos of that since I’m interested in theater. There are many stray cats in the Largo di Torre Argentina and I saw a sign asking you not to feed the cats because they will follow you into traffic. I was very thirsty so I found a small cafè where I ordered ice cream and bottled water. I took their card so I know it was the Trattoria della Torre Argentina.

Largo di Torre Argentina

After eating I came across the Il Gesù church which I entered, even though it wasn’t on my list of places to visit. Eventually I found my way to the museum Galleria Doria Pamphilj which was on my list of things to do. This was one of my favorite museums in Rome. I was given an audio guide with my ticket so I used an audio guide for the first time. The audio guide does enhance your visit but it takes more time to get through the museum if you listen to the narration. The Galleria Doria Pamphilj is a palace which now serves as an art gallery since the aristocrats collected so much fine art. It has many furnished period rooms which are extremely elegant. The walls are covered with old paintings making it seem like an eccentric grandparent’s house. The Hall of Mirrors was impressive and the paintings by Caravaggio were special. I really liked the Rest on the Flight to Egypt.

After leaving the Galleria Doria Pamphilj I walked to the Monument of Victor Emmanuel II and saw the Insula Romana, the ruins of an ancient Roman apartment building. Unfortunately the Capitoline Museums were closed. It looked like they were putting out the red carpet for someone but the newspaper reported there was a huge protest which I must have missed. That was not the impression I got. There were official looking cars parked around the Piazza del Campidoglio, lots of police standing around, and some gentlemen in period costume so it looked like there was something going on.

I had to skip the Capitoline Museums so I walked to the Theatre of Marcellus which isn’t far away. The Theatre of Marcellus looks like a smaller version of the Coliseum but you can’t enter it. However there is a pathway through the ruins in the area. I then walked across a bridge to Tiber Island and then into Trastevere. The bridge must have been the Ponte Cestio. This was probably my busiest day in Rome. I can’t believe how much I saw on this day and how far I walked. I saw the Ponte Rotto, the ruins of an ancient bridge in the middle of the Tiber River and I walked across the Tiber Island.

Once in Trastevere I found a restaurant, Taverna Priscinula Pizzeria, where I had the best meal during my trip to Italy. I had the four cheese pizza with truffle sauce. This pizza was unlike any pizza I’ve ever eaten. It was insanely good! The crust was very thin and crispy. I was able to eat a whole pie without feeling full because the crust was that thin. I think it was the truffle sauce that made this pizza so tasty. After eating I walked along Viale di Trastevere and eventually stumbled across Porta Portese. I then walked all the way to the Pyramid of Cestius and Porta San Paolo which was much further than I intended to go. All this walking was killing my feet which had big blisters.

I knew the Protestant Cemetery was in the area so I decided to visit the cemetery even though it was on my itinerary for another day. It was very hard to find the entrance. I should have indicated that in my notes. I walked all the way around the walls of the cemetery until I found the entrance in the back. The main reason for visiting the Protestant Cemetery is to see the graves of John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. I found John Keats’ grave easily enough but I had to buy a guide book at the gift shop to find the grave of Percy Bysshe Shelley. The Protestant Cemetery is a lovely and quiet place even if it is filled with tombstones. I’m not very familiar with the poetry of Keats and Shelley but I’ve read a few of their poems in old Harvard Classics books that the family has owned forever. I was pleased to make this literary pilgrimage. I plan to read biographies of John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. In fact, the biography of Percy Bysshe Shelley has a photo of his grave on the cover just like photo I took of his grave. Keat’s epitaph is very moving, “Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water” which I interpret as a comment on how impermanent life and fame can be, in contrast to having one’s name writ in stone as the Roman emperors were.

Protestant Cemetery

That was finally enough for one day so I took the Metro Line A from Pyramid Station to Termini Station. Ristorante Donati must be closed on Tuesdays so I went to the Ristorante Mino instead. After being seated I saw several groups of tourists being led upstairs. I was wondering if there was something significant upstairs but I guess this restaurant just caters to tour groups. I ordered scampi which didn’t have  much meat and crème brulee with white house wine.

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