Montreal Vacation – Monday

My plans are still messed up so today I did everything I had scheduled for Wednesday, which was exploring the Outremont and Mile End neighborhoods. To get to Outremont, I took the Orange Line in the direction of Montmorency to Jean-Talon Station. Then I took the Blue Line in the direction of Snowdon to Outremont Station. I found a newsstand in the metro where I bought a copy of the English language newspaper, The Montreal Gazette. The cashier seemed particularly unwilling to speak any English. This outing required navigating around various residential areas so I spent a lot of time previewing the route on Google Street View.

Before I set out for those neighborhoods, I visited La Brioche Lyonnaise again for breakfast. I had yogurt filled with fruit and granola and a cafe au lait. That morning, I found a film crew setting up a location shoot at the Saint-Louis Square. I managed to sneak a few photos of that.

First I walked along Avenue Bernard even though I was not planning on visiting any of the establishments on that street. I walked past the Theatre Outremont so I crossed the street to take some photos of the theater. Eventually I managed to find St. Viateur Bagel although I walked right past it at first. I bought a sesame bagel and walked to a nearby bench to eat it. Montreal is famous for its bagels so I fulfilled one of the essential tourist recommendations. I was planning on going into the nearby S.W. Welch Bookseller but a sign indicated they would not open until Noon and it was only 10:00 a.m. So I went and found Wilensky’s where I ordered the famous Special: a grilled salami and bologna sandwich with mustard on a kaiser roll, pressed flat from the grill. The restaurant was immortalized in Mordecai Richler’s novel, The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz. Scenes in the film version of the book were shot in the restaurant. I ordered a DVD of that movie when I got back to my hotel.

I wanted to wait around the area for S.W. Welch Bookseller to open since it was too much trouble to find the place. I wandered around several streets trying to find the Laurier metro station. It was very hot out and I was in the sun most of the time baking. Eventually S.W. Welch Bookseller opened and I bought two books; These Festive Nights by Marie-Claire Blais and Paolo Paoli by Arthur Adamov. Arthur Adamov is a French absurdist playwright whose work is extremely hard to find so I considered that quite a find. Fortunately, this was an English bookstore so I had no trouble communicating with the owner.

After an endless search for the metro station in the hot sun I finally made my way back to the hotel. I was sweating so much that I was afraid of soiling my books with sweat.

The film crew was still working at Saint-Louis Square. They seemed to be in the process of lighting a scene. I went to the dépanneur I found on Prince-Arthur Street and bought a can of soda to slake my thirst.

I had trouble finding something to do for the rest of the day so I went on a mission to find Theatre Saint Catherine which I would need to locate tomorrow night. I walked down to Sainte Catherine Street but later found it would have been quicker to use the metro to go to the Berri-UQAM station. After finding the theater I walked further along Sainte Catherine Street until I reached Place des Arts. I took a lot of photos along the way. I found a La Belle Province fast food place where I had a hot dog and a coke.

There were some thunderstorms in the evening so I stayed in my room all evening.

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Montreal Vacation – Sunday

Since I accomplished a few things on Saturday evening, my Sunday schedule was thrown off. The next thing I had scheduled was a visit to Librairie Michel Fortin but they didn’t open until 11:00 a.m. so I went to La Brioche Lyonnaise first for breakfast. My bed and breakfast only gave me coffee, orange juice, and a croissant so I needed more to eat. La Brioche Lyonnaise interested me because Lyon will be the next French city that I will research. I already have many travel guides to Lyon and I’ve done some preliminary research.

To get to the La Brioche Lyonnaise, I took the Orange Line in the direction of Côte-Vertu to Berri-UQAM Station. It was only one metro stop away. They open at 8:00 a.m. so I can go there directly after having the continental breakfast. I ordered La Lyonnaise which consisted of a large cup of coffee, some flat bread, and a pastry of some kind.

After breakfast I headed out to Philips Square where I took photos of various landmarks while waiting for La Baie d’Hudson to open, also known as the Hudson Bay Company. When this famous department store opened, I took the escalators up to the fifth floor and bought an extra piece of luggage for all the books I would be buying. Fortunately there was a sale on luggage and I bought a small one for less than $100.00. I had to go to the ground floor to find a cashier. There was another awkward episode involving trying to get a bag large enough for the luggage. Eventually I told them to forget it. I immediately returned to the bed and breakfast with my empty piece of luggage. With that taken care of I went straight back to Phillips Square and stopped in at Indigo which also opened at 10:00 a.m. There I had yet another awkward moment when a sales lady asked me something in French. I froze and didn’t say anything at all until she repeated herself in English. Oh the shame of it all! I’ve been studying French all year and still can’t manage to speak one word of it. Oh well, part of the purpose of this trip was to get me to make more effort.

At Indigo I bought a copy of Yves Beauchemin’s novel Le matou, which I’ve read in English as The Alley Cat. I’ve also seen the film version on DVD. I also bought a French book on Italian grammar, a guide to conjugating French verbs, and New Orleans … Like A Local. I’ve become interested in New Orleans and Louisiana because it is part of the Francophone world. The cashier spoke English and remarked on how ambitious I was based on my purchase. C’est vrai!

After that Librairie Michel Fortin was finally open so I visited that bookstore. Librairie Michel Fortin specializes in language learning books and it is located very close to Saint-Louis Square so it was pretty convenient. I really went wild at this bookstore and spent more than $100.00 on a peculiar selection of books; a Cajun French Dictionary, a Kit De Conversation Neerlandais (a French book on Dutch), a book on Italian verbs and essential grammar, and another book on Italian for foreigners Italiano Per Stranieri. Oh, and a book of the play Les Muses Orphelines by Michel Marc Bouchard. The exchange with the cashier was quite awkward, perhaps because I did say "Bonjour" when I entered which sent the wrong language signal.

That pretty much took care of everything I had scheduled for Sunday so I had to move on to Monday’s schedule. I decided to visit the Parc du Mont Royal. I entered the park at the Peel Street entrance after a long uphill climb on Peel Street. There I found countless stairs I also had to climb to reach the overlook. I had to rest on every landing because it was hot and exhausting to climb all those steps. But it was worth it because the Kondiaronk Belvedere provides an impressive view of the skyscrapers in downtown Montreal. I bought a popsicle from a vendor there because I needed to cool off and slake my thirst. That made my fingers sticky but I found a drinking fountain where I washed off the syrup. I took a lot of photos of the Montreal skyline but the plaza was crowded with tourists. Later I climbed a more gently sloping trail to the Mount Royal Cross which is an icon of the city. I stayed at the Kondiaronk Belvedere for several hours until the sun had set in order to get some photos of the skyscrapers caught in the last rays of the sun. I also got some photos of the city just as the lights started to some on. Fortunately, there were some vending machines in the chalet so I was able to buy some soft drinks and snacks. By the time I left you could barely see the steps on the stairs down the mountain. I really left at the last possible moment.

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Montreal Vacation – Saturday

I shall begin to describe my Montreal vacation by describing the flight since these details are worth documenting for future trips. I left home at 4:00 a.m. in order to be at the Philadelphia International Airport for my 10:15 a.m. flight. It takes four hours for me to drive to Philadelphia so I got there around 8:00 a.m. I did stop at the Hickory Run Travel Plaza on the way for some coffee because I was getting too tired to drive. I had a little trouble getting to the Economy Parking Lot. I took the shuttle bus to the F terminal but I really should have gotten off at the D terminal where United Airlines has its check-in counters. I only had to go through security at the Philadelphia airport. My flight left on time but it was keep waiting on the runway for about 15 minutes before taking off. When we got to Washington Dulles International Airport I only had 20 minutes to catch my flight to Montreal.

Both of these flights were on small commuter planes and not jumbo jets. The flight to Washington only took 30 minutes while the flight to Montreal took around an hour and a half. So I got to Montreal in time to do plenty of things on Saturday afternoon. At the Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport it should be noted that you go through immigration first, being asked more questions than usual, then you pick up your luggage, and then you hand in your customs declaration card. There was some confusion with the luggage since the board showed my flight at the oversized baggage carousel where only some luggage appeared.

I followed the signs to the taxis at the central exit and took a taxi to my bed and breakfast. That cost $40.00. Fortunately, I already had some Canadian cash on me.

After checking it at my charming bed and breakfast, I walked around the block to find Saint-Louis Square and the Sherbrooke metro station behind the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ). I withdrew some more cash from an ATM and bought another L’occasionnelle card. That was when I had my first awkward moment. I tried to use the card like a London Travel Card which inserts into a slot to be read and pops out at the top of the turnstile. In fact, you are supposed to wave this card over a scanner just like an Oyster Card.

My first metro trip was on the Orange Line in the direction of Montmorency to the Jean-Talon Station where I transferred to the Blue Line in the direction of Snowden to Côte-des-Neiges. From there I found my way to the flagship store of Renaud-Bray. This bookstore was my first destination because I am a frequent customer of their online store. You can order most French books from Renaud-Bray although the shipping is expensive. I didn’t find the obscure Québécois novels I was looking for, but I did buy; a book on French verb conjugation “Larousse Conjugaison” a “Petit guide de parler québécois”, a travel guide for Bruxelles, and a French travel guide for Nouvelle-Orleans. There was another awkward moment with the cashier since I did not understand the number she spoke. I really need to spend more time on learning the numbers in a foreign language!

After that I headed out for supper at La Banquise which is enormously popular for its poutine. I had considerable trouble finding this restaurant and had to consult my custom travel guide several times. This restaurant gets very crowded. I ordered the classic poutine in the small size which I was able to finish. I only had water to drink because the server did not ask if I wanted anything to drink or anything else. It was quite a struggle to squeeze pass the people crammed in the front door. Maybe I should have left by another door.

After wandering around many streets searching the metro station I did find a Jean Coutu pharmacy where I bought some soap and antiperspirant because I forgot to bring mine. I had another awkward exchange with the cashier but at least I understood her when she asked if I wanted a bag.

I don’t think I did anything else Saturday evening but that struck two things off of Sunday’s schedule. I was extremely tired when I returned to the bed and breakfast. I feel asleep with the lights on and my laptop doing a Flickr upload.

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Longwood Gardens Bus Trip

Yesterday I went on a bus trip to a hidden gem in the Philadelphia area, Longwood Gardens.  This was my second trip with Sherry Ault Tours, an independent travel agent. I’m keeping an eye out for bus trips. It may even be worthwhile to expand my range since Martz Tours in Wilkes-Barre had a trip to Quebec which would have been more convenient than my trip next week.

Longwood Gardens is like the Versailles of Pennsylvania. It does not have the palace of a Versailles but it has the palace grounds of a Versailles with gardens fit for a European palace. In fact, the gardens of Longwood Gardens were inspired by many famous European gardens including Versailles. I learned that in my tour of the Peirce-du Pont House. By the way, I actually saw the gardens of Versailles on my trip to Paris several years ago.

I’ve read about Longwood Gardens in my travel guides to Philadelphia which include attractions in the Brandywine area. But Longwood Gardens is far west of Philadelphia so you can’t squeeze it in on a trip to that city. It would have to be an all-day side trip. I’m glad I was not driving to Longwood Gardens because it does seem a little hard to find. I took some notes on landmarks I saw on the way.

The only thing that marred my trip was problems with my digital camera. Any photo I take which includes the sky is turning out with serious washout. Fortunately, this did not ruin too many photos but I have to buy a new digital camera since this seems to be a common problem with the CCD-chip or lens. Its cheaper to replace a camera than to try to have it fixed. I will upgrade to 12 mega-pixels. Hopefully this will also solve the annoying problem I have with my digital camera losing its date settings.

Longwood Gardens was really magical. They even have fairy lights in the woods, a fiber-optic light display. I especially liked the Italian Garden although it was not working and I found it empty. Italy will be my next European destination so I appreciate a little inspiration. The massive conservatory was also very impressive. I liked the palm tree house most of all because it was very tropical. The Topiary Garden was also pretty cool.

But my favorite place was the meadow. A meadow may not seem like much but this meadow struck me as being highly unusual. It was a vast hillside meadow with a barn visible way off in the distance. In that respect it was a very typical Pennsylvania landscape and reminded me of some hiking trips in my youth. But what I found most unusual about this meadow was that it was filled with waist-high weeds and wildflowers. The meadow was jam packed with wildflowers and weeds in a way that seemed a little unnatural. I found the following description of the meadow on the Longwood Gardens web site.

Once the site of a planted field and pasture, this area was created to add a new dimension to the horticultural display of Longwood Gardens. The meadow represents the first stage in the natural succession process: the progressive replacement of one plant community by another, from field to forest. To maintain the meadow, Longwood mows or burns it once a year in late winter to prevent tree and shrub growth. The native wildflowers found there have either been planted by Longwood horticulturists or independently established from seed dispersed by wind or animals. Persistent invasive weeds such as Japanese honeysuckle and Canada thistle are controlled mechanically and by applying selective herbicide sprays. In late summer and early fall, the meadow is particularly attractive and alive with moths, butterflies and birds. Visitors can explore the meadow by following the mowed path

So the meadow is indeed a field of wildflowers which has been artificially created and maintained to prevent certain types of plants from growing there. This accounts for the haunting nature of the meadow.  It represents an exaggeration of something familiar, at least to Pennsylvania residents familiar with the native wildflowers, and therefore has the same qualities as dream imagery. I wonder if the meadow is as haunting to non PA residents? To them it may appear charming but probably does not trigger deep associations.

I took lots of photos of the tall weeds in the foreground with the farm houses in the background. Luckily these photos turned out well and are as visually striking as I had hoped.

We were at Longwood Gardens for a long time in order to see the Fountain and Light show at 9:15 p.m. The bus did not leave until 10:30 p.m. and I did not get home until 3:30 a.m. But it was worth because I had plenty of time to explore the gardens. I even saw an exotic music performance at the Open Air Theatre, the Indian Bhangra & Brass Funk Concert by Red Baraat. I see they performed at the Montreal Jazz Festival which is interesting because I’m going to Montreal next week so of course I know about their Jazz Festival.

I should be able to visit Longwood Gardens some time in the future since it is a popular attraction and frequent tour bus destination. But for now I need to focus on my big trip to Montreal next week. After that I really need to improve my finances because all this travel is expensive. I won’t be able to go to Italy next year if I don’t earn a lot of extra income.

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Williamsport Is Going Hotel Crazy

Last night I watched an amusing film on DVD, La Florida. I’m planning another major trip this summer to Montreal so I’ve been looking for movies made in Quebec. La Florida was a real find! I loved this movie! It concerns a family from Montreal who get sick of the Canadian winter and move to Florida to start their own business by renovating a shabby motel.

La-Florida

La Florida: Movies & TV

ASIN: B002HZ7GZ8

I’ve lived next to a motel all my life so motels definitely seem like a part of the American landscape to me. It was amusing to watch a film about the Québécois invading the American motel business and bringing French to Florida.

This summer, I’ve noticed that my neighborhood has gone hotel crazy in a big way. The Marcellus Shale hydraulic fracturing industry has created a housing shortage in Williamsport and tripled rents. One result of this is an explosion of real estate speculators rushing to build hotels and motels all over the place. For example, the motel I live next to is currently under construction to add a second floor. It is really going to change the look of my street.

But that is not all. I’ve noticed a considerable amount of other construction going on in the area. On the mountain behind Weis, it looks like somebody expanded a house into a luxury lodge. I can’t quite tell what the building looks like but it is quite noticeable up there on the mountain. It must have a nice view. It does look too large to be a private residence.

And recently I’ve learned that the Kast Hotel, which used to be a restaurant in Newberry, not far from where I work, has gone back to being a real hotel with 19 rooms available. I saw their advertisement in a local weekly.

Personally I think Williamsport needs a skyscraper to accommodate its growth. Williamsport could be the Dubai of Pennsylvania!

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Second Trip To Charm City

My second trip to Baltimore Maryland went extremely well and advanced my exploration of the city. I’ve been looking forward to a return trip to Baltimore but I did not do much additional research because I still had plenty of things to see in the Inner Harbor area. Fortunately it was a bright sunny day so I got better photos than on my last trip which was overcast. The Inner Harbor stank to high heaven. It smelled like raw sewage. You could hardly stand to walk along the harbor. But it did not keep away the crowds. This was the first day of the long Memorial Day weekend so the Inner Harbor was packed with tourists.

I did not go to the National Aquarium or see the dolphin show because I did that on my last trip. I headed straight for the Baltimore World Trade Center and paid $5.00 for the elevator to the top observation deck called the “Top of the World“. There I enjoyed stunning views of the downtown skyscrapers which face the harbor and the Inner Harbor. I took lots of photos. They also had a Baltimore gift shop and a few exhibits about 9/11 but I only picked up a few tourist pamphlets.

After that I headed to my favorite museum, the American Visionary Art Museum. Before the trip, I became a member of the museum and received my membership card in the mail. This entitled me to free entry. All the floors were open so I spent a lot more time at the museum on this trip and saw more artwork. Their current exhibit is All Things Round. I saw some great paintings by Stephanie Lucas and Paul Lancaster but I cannot find any information about these artists online. They don’t even have Wikipedia articles. After viewing all the artwork I had lunch at the museum’s restaurant, Mr. Rain’s Fun House. I ordered the Fun House Burger with sauteed onions and some kind of salad as a side dish. While eating I stared out the window at a condominium complex. I could see the Legg Mason Tower in the background and that is when I realized that these are the condominiums I saw from the water taxi on my last trip. There are quite a few high rise condominiums surrounding the Baltimore Inner Harbor. It makes me wonder where the wealth comes from since Baltimore has a reputation for being an impoverished city. I suspect they are commuters from Washington DC so this is big money from the federal government on display.

After lunch I went to the museum’s bookstore where I bought a book on Japanese pop culture entitled Tokyo Clash. Let’s consider why this book was on sale at the American Visionary Art Museum since it does not cover outsider art. I recently came across an useful word, exotica, objects considered strange or interesting because out of the ordinary, esp. because they originated in a distant foreign country. Japanese pop culture is a fine example of exotica and that explains why the bookstore stocked it. It also explains why I’ve become so interested in travel and what I hope to find. For example, I’m currently researching my trip to Montreal and I’m especially excited whenever I discover anything obscure and bizarre in their culture. Recently I ordered a DVD of the film Léolo, a movie about a 12-year-old dreamer with a hilarious life-preserving ability to recreate the world according to his imagination.

I also went into the James Rouse Visionary Center which I missed on my previous visit because it is located in a separate building. This building houses their kinetic art and large vehicles used in their Kinetic Sculpture Race. I saw giant pink poodle sculptures mounted on bicycles and a car covered in small glass bottles.

I’m pleased that I saw more of the American Visionary Art Museum on this trip. I’m not sure how seriously I should take this museum. The entire “outsider art” concept is condescending and the museum’s approach often seems frivolous and campy to me. I should have become obsessed with the museum but unfortunately it does not correspond closely enough to my concept of visionary art to inspire me. The most important quality of visionary art is that it should be profound. This is something the surreal frequently lacks. Surreal art is rarely as profound as a dream. There are actually two types of dreams; grotesque dreams and profound dreams. Profound dreams are hyper-significant and will haunt you even after waking up. They are a rare glimpse of how the soul secretly sees the world. Visionary art should also be art that shows you the world from the soul’s eyes in its secret way. Another essential quality of visionary art is that it should be haunting; eerily beautiful and hauntingly beautiful. I’m not sure if the American Visionary Art Museum realizes just how powerful and grand a vision can be.

I did visit another shrine to high camp that day, the Geppi’s Entertainment Museum. This is great museum of American pop culture with an impressive collection of rare comic books. They have trashy film posters, vintage toys, and everything a geek could desire. I would highly recommend this museum to tourists from other countries who may be fascinated with American pop culture. And for American pop culture addicts this is the ultimate museum. Personally I’ve never been that into comic books but I like all the comic book inspired films that Hollywood is making a fortune on right now. For example, The Avengers broke box office records this summer and I saw some Avengers comic books yesterday at this museum. Geppi’s Entertainment Museum isn’t quite in the Inner Harbor area, you have to walk west towards the Baltimore Orioles Stadium to find it. Along the way I saw a MTA commuter rail train.

Some people would say Baltimore’s Inner Harbor is one huge tourist trap. The Maryland Science Center certainly makes it seem so. It cost me $16.95 to visit this museum and all they had were interactive science exhibits for kids. I was not impressed. They did have some Baltimore blue crabs in fish aquariums. You can tell how lame it was if that was the highlight of the museum. To be fair, they also have dinosaur fossils, complete dinosaur skeletons, and a huge model of a meat eating dinosaur attacking a plant eating dinosaur. I also learned about the spacecraft that NASA has sent to Pluto which should arrive there in 2015.

For the rest of the day, I didn’t do much of anything except explore the various shopping malls in the area. I went to Barnes & Noble where I bought two DVDs; Mon Oncle Antoine (an important Québécoise film), and Pink Flamingos by John Waters. Baltimore is the home town of John Waters and many of his films are set in the city. Unfortunately I don’t think I’ve ever seen a John Waters film except for Hairspray. That reminds me that I forgot to mention a huge sculpture of Divine which I saw in the James Rouse Visionary Center.

I also bought three more travel guides to Montréal. I don’t really need any more travel guides for that city because my research is very comprehensive by now but the books did have some nice photos.

I bought a rubber blue crab toy at the Best of Baltimore store in the Harbourplace Mall. It was pretty expensive for what it is, $12.99. But I’ve always liked crabs. They are sort of cute with their pinchers but also a little creepy. Baltimore loves their blue crabs and uses them extensively as their mascot and iconic sea creature. But mostly Baltimore likes to eat blue crabs with Old Bay Seasoning. I can buy shrimp at the local grocery store with Old Bay Seasoning. Food prices have gone up so much that shrimp are just as expensive as anything else.

I think I’m just about done exploring Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. The only other attraction I’ve yet to see are the historic ships. I should do some more research on the Fell’s Point neighborhood which is a quaint historic area full of boutiques and restaurants. Fell’s Point is easily reached from the Inner Harbor so that would be the next place for me to explore.

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Last Day In London

For my last day in London I only had two trips planned, a visit to the Natural History Museum and afternoon tea at the John Lewis Department Store. I went back to the South Kensington neighborhood for the Natural History Museum. I arrived early and had to wait outside the gates for a half hour but at least I was first in line. By the time they opened the gate there was a very long line. I was eager to get inside because it was raining. While I waited I saw some very modern tour buses including some Wettels German buses. I was able to read their slogan “Reisen mit Stil” (Travel With Style). I also took a photo of the Lycee Français Charles de Gaulle across the street, further proof that South Kensington is home to many French expats.

I saw Dippy, the large Diplodocus cast which dominates the vaulted central hall and the statue of Charles Darwin. I managed to see most of the museum’s highlights; the Cocoon, the Blue Whale model, the animated T-Rex, the giant sequoia, the Vault, and the giant sloth. I deposited my umbrella at the coat check and then lost my claim ticket while filming the animated T-Rex. I had to go back through the entire dinosaur hall to find my ticket. Fortunately I saw it on the floor. I had a sliced egg with mustard cress sandwich and a cup of coffee in the Darwin Center Café.

While on the way back to my hotel I passed the Institut français du Royaume-Uni again and took some more photos of the building. As long as I was in the area, I decided to visit another French book shop, The French Bookshop. The store staff asked me what I was looking for so I said something easy to read “facile à lire”. I bought four books;

  1. Le Fantôme Mène L’Enquête par Jacques Asklund
  2. Zoé calamité par Chanteal Laborde
  3. Nouvelles  chute
  4. Nouvelles chute 2

When I got back to the hotel and freshened up I headed out again to the John Lewis Department Store for afternoon tea. Unfortunately I arrived a little too early at 2:30 p.m. They don’t serve afternoon tea until 3:00 p.m. so I went to their coffee shop on the floor above and had a Danish pastry, a scone with cream, and a pot of tea.

Since I still had some time to kill I decided to visit another book store, The European Bookshop on Warwick Street. It took me awhile to find the bookshop. In fact I found Carnaby Street before I found Warwick Street. At The European Bookshop I bought two more French books; Le Ping-Pong by Arthur Adamov (a rare avant-garde play) and Le Malade imaginaire by Molière. According to my receipt it was 15:28 or 3:38 by then.

When I returned to my hotel I decided to spend my last few hours in London walking in Hyde Park even though my feet were killing me. Eventually I walked clear across Hyde Park and saw the Serpentine, the Diana, Princess of Wales memorial, and the Serpentine Bar & Kitchen. I walked until I came to the Albert Memorial and the Royal Albert Hall where I took lots of photos. The Albert Memorial is a grand monument and something I had wanted to see so I was glad I made the effort.

That concluded my trip to London. It was a grand experience and I managed to accomplish all the goals I set out for this trip. I wish I could have stayed longer and seen even more of London but my feet could not take the punishment.

There are a few details about the trip home that I want to record for the sake of future travel. I had to lug my three pieces of luggage back up Edgware Road to Paddington Station in the rain without an umbrella. I had to leave my umbrella behind because it was too large to fit in any of my suitcases. Then I had to pay 19 pounds again for the Heathrow Express. At least I used a luggage cart when I got to Heathrow. I had to find the United Airlines counter where I used a self check-in machine to print my boarding passes. It cost me 44 pounds to check in my excess baggage, the Marks and Spenser luggage I bought just for the books.

Fortunately my flight to Washington Dulles Airport took off on time. The seat next to me was empty so I had plenty of space. I put my coat on the empty seat. The flight was long enough for me to see four movies; My Week with Marilyn, The Woman in Black starring Daniel Radcliffe, Young Adult, and Chronicle. As we approached Washington Dulles Airport I was able to see the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center out the plane window. I filled out a customs form on the plane.

When we landed I had to go through customs and then collect my checked bags. Basically I collected my bags, walked through immigration, and then re-checked my bags by placing them on a conveyor belt. Collecting my baggage was sort of a pointless exercise but you have to do that when returning from an international flight. I just had time to walk through the airport to find the gate for my connecting flight to Philadelphia. I remember I had to take a train from terminal C to terminal A. Fortunately the flight to Philadelphia only took 25 minutes of actual airtime. When I arrived in Philadelphia I just had to collect my baggage. It cost me $4.00 for a baggage cart though which I only used to get to the Economy Parking bus. The bus dropped me off near my car in the Economy Parking. The Philadelphia Parking Authority charged me $88.00 for parking! It may have been cheaper to fly from our regional airport after all. Then I had to find my way out of the airport to the PA Turnpike. Unfortunately my directions weren’t very good and I had to drive around until I saw a sign for Interstate 76 which eventually led me to Interstate 476 and the PA Turnpike. I didn’t remember the number of the correct exit on 76 but fortunately the signs were clear enough when you know what exit you need.

I stopped at the Allentown Service Plaza where I refueled and used my electric razor. I also used the restroom and had a slice of pizza, a large cup of coffee, and an espresso for even more caffeine. It was the caffeine shot I really needed after that long flight. The PA Turnpike cost me $6.30, something to remember.

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London Trip – Day Five

Thursday was a day for visiting the historical landmarks of England. On this day, I went to the Tower of London, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the Westminster Abbey. The Tower of London opened at 9:00 a.m. but I arrived a little early. I had to wait behind the shuttered ticket booths to escape the rain. From the Tower of London, you can see the Tower Bridge and London’s new skyscraper, The Shard, so I took some photos of that while I waited. The Shard is also visible within the Tower of London and makes a nice contrast to its historic Norman towers.

My London Pass allowed me to enter without further payment or a ticket. Just about the first thing I did was see the crown jewels. After walking through a series of tacky museum exhibits I entered a large room with glass display cases containing the crowns and jewel incrusted relics of the monarchy. There were not many visitors to the Tower of London that early so I got a good look at the crown jewels. After that I saw where they beheaded many famous prisoners, the prison tower with its graffiti, the Bloody Tower where the two princes were murdered, the Royal Armouries Museum, and The Fusilier Museum. It was still raining so everyone had their umbrellas out.

I’m glad I got to see the Tower of London. I might have skipped it but I read Helene Hanff’s travel diary of her dream trip to London, The Duchess of Bloomsbury Street, in which she expressed regret that she did not have enough time to visit the Tower of London, so I decided not to make her mistake.

There was some crazy Asian tourist whom I caught taking photos of me at one point. He must have thought I was British. As I was leaving I passed a professional film crew with television cameras. They seemed to be interviewing someone using the Tower of London as a backdrop. At the White Tower Shop I bought the book The Princes In The Tower by Alison Weir (ISBN: 978-0-099-52696-4) and metal Knight with Flail statuette.

Before I left the area I got some close up photos of the Tower Bridge, the City of London’s City Hall, The Shard, and the HMS Belfast. Then I ordered fish and chips at a food stall near the ticket booths. There was no place to sit and eat so I had to eat standing up, using a stone block as a table. I felt a bit foolish and it was still raining so I had to eat under my umbrella. There was a funny little bird that hopped around me trying to steal my chips. Anyways, there I was eating fish and chips in the rain with a good view of the Tower of London. It does not get more British than that!

My next stop was St. Paul’s Cathedral. I didn’t entirely follow my Tube directions because the cathedral was visible in the distance when I exited the Monument station so I just walked to it. By that time it was raining hard so I was glad to reach the cathedral to get out of the rain. My London Pass also allowed me to enter St. Paul’s Cathedral without payment. I climbed the dome but only up to the whispering gallery because that was tiring enough for me. I also visited the crypt where I searched for the William Blake memorial. I searched every memorial twice but I could not locate his memorial. I’ve since found a photo of it online and I don’t think I saw one like that. My one disappointment with this trip was the search for William Blake because I also could not find his work at the Tate Britain.

I had a ploughman’s sandwich in a box, a large lemonade, and a Bertrams Smoothie in the cathedral’s crypt cafe. There is also a restaurant and a small gift shop down there. It is strange how they’ve turned the cathedral into a museum of English spirituality. I sat with a French family who asked to sit at my table. They chatted away in French. The only word I easily picked up on was "manger" so they were talking about eating of course.

After leaving St. Paul’s Cathedral I found the Mansion House tube station and went to the Westminster Abbey. According to my ticket I arrived there at 2:09 p.m. Unfortunately, there was no photography allowed in the abbey, but I saw an impressive collection of memorials, ancient tombs of kings and queens, and Gothic splendor. I found the Poet’s Corner where I was surprised to find a memorial tile for Henry James on the floor. I didn’t know he was commemorated at the Poet’s Corner. I also saw Ted Hughes’s memorial floor tile. I found my way to the cloisters and the small museum where I bought a booklet on the Poet’s Corner. Before I left I bought a biography of William Shakespeare at the gift shop, Shakespeare: The Biography by Peter Ackroyd (ISBN: 978-0-749-38655-9).

I’m glad I managed to visit these historic sites of London all in one day. It really made an overpowering impression of the history of England. I recommend that you take a day to see all three sites together because that makes for the best experience.

I still had some time left in the day so I may a special Tube trip to the Daunt bookshop to buy some books on Venice. I bought Venice by Jan Morris (ISBN: 0-571-16897-3) and A Brief History Of Venice by Elizabeth Horodowich (ISBN: 978-1-84529-611-7). I don’t think I want to take the Tube at 5:30 p.m. again because it was incredibly crowded with commuters rushing home after work. They were packed in like sardines on the trains and there was a huge crowd for the escalators.

That evening I had dinner at La Porte Des Indes. This is a neat restaurant which serves Indian / French fusion food. All of their courses have French names for exotic Indian dishes. I had a mango drink served in an actual coconut. It was a very fancy restaurant, not your typical Indian restaurant, and I watched the staff perform their duties at great speed like a well-oiled machine. Unfortunately, this was also a very expensive restaurant as my bill came to 58.50 pounds for one person. According to my receipt I had the following; Perles Des Indes, Zakouski, Irish Coffee, Ice Cream, Mango Coco, and Crevettes Assadh (prawns simmered in a mild coconut curry with green mangoes, tumeric, chillies and ginger).

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London Trip – Day Four

On Wednesday, April 25th, I began my day with a trip to the British Museum. This was a day of especially heavy rain so I was glad to spend a lot of time in a museum. I arrived shortly before the museum opened so I had time to get something to eat from the cafeteria before the galleries opened. I had a fancy sandwich (Egg mayo cress) sliced in half and sold in a box. These seem to be available everywhere. I even bought a few in Sainbury’s. The English seem to have lots of gourmet ready-to-eat meals. The United States should steal that idea because I’m tired of our frozen dinners. What else did I have? Oh yes, a gooey triple chocolate muffin and a can of Red Bull to wake me up.

As soon as the galleries opened I saw the Rosetta Stone. There was quite a crowd of people around it but I managed to snap a photo. Photography was allowed so everyone was taking photos constantly and I took hundreds of photos myself. There were many Egyptian statues which make excellent subjects for photos. I’ve never really been into Egypt but I know some occultists fantasize its culture so it seems vaguely mystical and I like that. Next I saw the famous Elgin Marbles from the Parthenon. Now this was a big thrill for me and one of my goals for the trip. I do have a small collection of books on the ancient Greeks and I’ve read about these marble sculptures many times. I have some really fine books on Athens. One book has incredibly high resolution black and white photos of the ruins of the Parthenon. There is always talk of returning the Elgin Marbles to Greece so I’m glad I had the chance to see them before they leave London.

One unexpected surprise at the British Museum was the awe inspiring Enlightenment Gallery, formerly known as the King’s Library. This was a true vision of a library! It is the grandest library you could possibly imagine filled with not only old leather bound books but awesome curios and art objects such as Greek vases and Egyptian sculptures. On Reddit there is a subreddit for Books where someone is always posting photos of some awesome library in the world. I’m surprised I’ve never seen this room there. The books were probably only meant as a scholarly backdrop for the display cabinets and sculptures in the room but I spent just as much time looking at the books as the cultural artifacts.

I wandered around the galleries for quite some time but eventually I had enough and left. Before I left I bought a Rosetta Stone paperweight and a magna book featuring the British Museum which I thought was cute, Professor Munakata’s British Museum Adventure by Hoshino Yukinobu (ISBN: 978-0714124650).

My next stop was the Sir John Soane’s Museum. Unfortunately , the facade was covered in scaffolding but the museum was open. Security was tight at this museum because the visitors have to come in close proximity to the collection. This is a quaint museum, basically a cramped house filled with the personal collection of the neo-classical architect Sir John Soane. It is sort of like a haunted house of classical art. A lot of the objects in the house were shielded by those glass panels that museums seem to like to preserve something from the hordes of visitors but this really ruined the effect. I saw William Hogarth’s A Rake’s Progress and some paintings of Venice by Canaletto. I’ve been taking special notice of anything relating to Venice on this trip because frankly I got tired of the planning for my London trip and started on the planning for Venice.

After leaving Sir John Soane’s Museum I returned to my room at the Parkwood because I was burdened with my purchases and I didn’t want them to get wet. Also, the next item on my schedule was a shopping expedition to Foyles bookshop on Charing Cross Road and I wanted to be empty-handed for that.

I had considerable trouble finding the Folyes bookshop but eventually I found some familiar streets in Soho and decided to eat at Café Boheme before buying books. I ordered Toulouse sausages and frites with a Liqueur Coffee. The waiter was the only person in London to ask about my nationality because I had trouble understanding anything he said with his French accent. While I was waiting for my food I consulted my notes on my iTouch and realized that I was close to Foyles.

At Foyles I hit the jackpot in French language books so I bought five, although I made sure they were small books. I bought Arthur Rimbaud’s Illuminations. I have dozens of this title in various editions in my Rimbaud collection but this one seems to have some commentary. I also found Racine’s Phèdre which I bought because I’m interested in exploring French theater. Le Petite Nicolas voyage a book I actually may be able to read eventually. Since it is a children’s book about travel it should be of some interest to me also. Then, just to make sure the sales clerk would know that I’m studying French I bought Say It Right In French and Palgrave Foundations French 1. Eventually I bought an extra piece of luggage at Marks & Spencer just for all the books I bought. According to the sales receipt, I bought a Hydra Cabin on 04/24/2012 Tuesday at 17:46. Oh yes, I remember now. I bought this just before heading out for the Apollo Theater to see that play.

After buying the books I think I spent a few hours exploring Soho without returning to my hotel. Or did I go to the hotel to drop off the books and then returned to Soho? No, I think I only returned to the hotel after leaving Sir John Soane’s Museum. Anyway, I didn’t do much in Soho except take photos of various establishments I recognized from my research. This probably wasn’t a good use of time since London will not be a city I’ll get to visit often. I did see Soho Square and was amused to find the Palace Theatre advertising the musical “Singing In The Rain”. It rained every day during my trip and nobody was singing in the rain.

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Long Day’s Journey To London

My third day in London was devoted to Tate museums and theater. First, I took the Tube to the Pimlico Tube Station which is close to the Tate Britain museum. I used Google Street View to preview the walk from the station exit to the museum before making my trip. The British Secret Intelligence Service building was visible across the Thames so I took a few photos of that. You can see that building in one of the Bond films.

Tate Britain was having a special exhibit on Picasso In Britain so I bought a ticket for that exhibition. I saw several famous Picassos and a few other masterpieces by British artists inspired by Picasso like Francis Bacon, Duncan Grant, Wyndham Lewis, and Henry Moore. I saw The Lady of Shalott by John William Waterhouse and a few other Pre-Raphaelite paintings which I really liked. I also saw John Singer Sargent’s Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose which I had added to my notes on this artist associated with Venice. Unfortunately, I could not find the William Blake artwork this museum is supposed to have in its collection. I did see many J.M.W. Turner paintings including several of his famous paintings of Venice.

I had a very tasty meal in the museum’s self service cafeteria. I prefer this kind of museum restaurant because it is less formal and does not take as much time to get through eating. I had a sausage sandwich with avocado, a little ice-cream, and a fruit drink.

After going through the museum without finding anything by William Blake, I bought a ticket for the Tate To Tate Boat. This is an excellent way to squeeze a Thames boat trip into your Tate museums visit. Unfortunately I must have lost my umbrella on the boat because I eventually realized I didn’t have it later.

Instead of going directly to the Tate Modern, I went to the Globe Theater. This was fortunate because I was able to catch their very last tour of the day. If I had gone to the Tate Modern first as planned, I would have missed the tour of the Globe Theater. Actually, I was vaguely aware that there might not be a tour due to their Shakespeare performances featuring international theater companies. My excessive trip planning really paid off.

I have read every play by Shakespeare back in high school and I love the theater so this was a big thrill for me. After a brief lecture, the tour guide led us into the theater. There were some stage preparations going on but not an actual rehearsal so we were allowed to take a few photos and the tour guide amused us by taking frequent dramatic pauses as the sound check would blast something to drown her out.

After that fairly brief tour I went through their Shakespeare exhibit which I found to be too much like a museum and not sufficiently theatrical. They did have some stage costumes and stage props on display.

The Tate Modern was having the first major survey of Damien Hirst’s work so naturally I had to see that. I have to admit that I’d never heard of Damien Hirst until Ogier mentioned him on Vloggerheads. I did see his shark in a display case, The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and I saw it again here in London. I also saw his cow encased in vitrine and cut in half. But most shocking of all was an actual severed cow’s head in a glass box filled with large flies. Now that was really morbid and kind of gross. However, some of his other work was actually very beautiful like a giant stained glass window made out of butterflies. One room of the exhibit had actual butterflies flying around and one landed in a woman’s hair. His monumental gold cabinet filled with manufactured diamonds was simply stunning. But best of all I got to see his famous work,  For the Love of God, a human skull recreated in platinum and adorned with 8,601 diamonds. You had to get into a special line to see this skull and go through security to see it in a black box. They treated it like the crown jewels.

I had lunch at the Tate Modern, a cheeseburger with chips and some kind of sweet drink but it took a long time to be served. It really cut into my museum time which is why I prefer self serve cafeterias. After lunch I saw the other special exhibition I paid for, an exhibit of the work of Aligheiero Boetti. I had never heard of this artist. He was an Italian conceptual artist, considered to be a member of the art movement Arte Povera. I’ll have to check out modern Italian art when I get heavily into learning Italian. After all, Italy is one of the more important European countries and it would require several trips to do it justice.

Unfortunately, I had to cut short my visit to the Tate Modern without seeing everything because I didn’t want to be late for the play I was going to see that evening. As I was walking across the Millennium Bridge some girl holding her homework assignment quizzed me as to why the opening of the bridge was delayed. I told her it was because the bridge was swaying. Yes, I did my homework for this trip! I took lots of photos of St Paul’s Cathedral of course, because that is one of the major symbols of London. I did have to consult my notes on my iTouch to find the St Paul’s Cathedral Tube Station.

The highlight of my trip was seeing Eugene O’Neill’s Long Days Journey Into Night at the Apollo Theatre. I have read every one of Eugene O’Neill’s plays and built up a small collection of books on O’Neill back when I had ambitions to be a playwright. In all this time I have never seen one of his plays performed on stage. I have seen two or three film versions of this particular play starring Jason Robards and Jack Lemmon. Eugene O’Neill interests me because he had a “touch of the poet”, the title of one of his plays, and he frequently struggled to express his mysticism. Eugene O’Neill did not believe he was enough of a poet to describe his mystic vision of union with the universe and I can relate to that. One of the books I have equates O’Neill’s mysticism with Buddhism. Unfortunately, I never got around to reading that book so maybe I’ll do that when I get home.

The actors in the play spoke with American accents, not British accents, although the actor playing Edmund sounded like he was speaking with a slight Irish brogue. The stage set was very elaborate and detailed. It looked as good as the film sets. They also used stage fog for the fog mentioned in the play which impressed me. The Apollo Theatre itself is rather grand and made an impressive setting for this cultural event.

I had never imagined that one day I would see Eugene O’Neill’s Long Days Journey Into Night in London! This will probably be the single greatest cultural event of my life. Seriously, I cannot think of anything that could top this unless it involved me personally. And to think that I planned this trip for a year without realizing the date would permit me to see this play. I really lucked out! Oh, and let’s not forget that I also visited Shakespeare’s Globe Theater on this day. Shakespeare is an important aspect of Eugene O’Neill’s play because his actor father expresses remorse that he missed his chance to become one of the greatest American Shakespearean actors in American history. This was a red letter day.

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London Trip – Day Two

I worked out a detailed itinerary before my trip and today I followed my schedule. First I took the Tube to the Green Park station and walked to Buckingham Palace. I think they had the Victoria Memorial blocked off but I did not notice this right away and walked around it taking photos from every angle. I got lots of good shots because nobody was sitting around it. But I think I shouldn’t have been there.

After that I walked down the Mall to the Admiralty Arch and then walked across Westminster Bridge to the London Eye. It was really thrilling to be so close to Parliament and Big Ben, the iconic symbols of the UK. Before boarding the London Eye you have to go through the 4D experience. Being sprayed in the face with some light mist came as a surprise.

The London Eye was really awesome. I saw London’s newest skyscraper, The Shard, and got an aerial view of the Houses of Parliament. At the London Eye gift shop, I bought a London Guardsman Bear at 10:24 a.m. according to the receipt.

After returning to my hotel room, I set out again for South Kensington. The first thing I did was go shopping for French books at Librairie La Page. The proprietress greeted me in French but I answered in English since my French is terrible. I need to figure out how to work on my pronunciation since my study methods only improve reading comprehension. I asked if she had any travel guides and she said yes, but in French. She was probably puzzled by me. I bought a few French travel guides on Venice because everything I’ve read about Venice has been from an American perspective. I’ve read about Henry James, Ernest Hemingway, Peggy Guggenheim, Ezra Pound, and every other American who spent more than a month in Venice. Of course, Venice may not care for the French. Wasn’t it Napoleon who ended the Republic during his conquest of Europe?

According to the receipt dated 23/04/2012  13:02, I bought a copy of the French newspaper Le Figaro, Venise: Guide évasion en ville published by Hachette Tourisme (ISBN: 978-2-01-244650-2), Venise GeoGuide (ISBN: 978-2-74-242684-3), and Lonely Planet Québec (ISBN: 978-2-81610-706-7).

After that I went to the Victoria and Albert Museum where I spent four hours. That museum is huge and there is a lot to see. I paid extra for their special exhibit on modern British Design 1948-2012. I wasn’t terribly impressed by this exhibit but I did see some punk clothing and they played David Bowie’s “Ashes To Ashes” as background music. It really amused me to hear that song in the Victoria and Albert Museum. At the V&A Museum shop I bought the book London’s Theatres at exactly 16:28 according to the receipt. This book particularly caught my eye because the back cover shows the Apollo Theatre advertising the play “All My Sons” starring David Suchet, the same actor in the play I was to see.

My schedule may be too intense because my feet are already aching and my back sometimes troubles me. You should definitely travel before you get too old because it is physically demanding.

This evening I had dinner at the Spaghetti House near my hotel. The Spaghetti House is a genuine Italian restaurant where all the staff speaks Italian and the food is all Italian. We have a lot of Italian restaurants in the United States, half of the restaurants in Williamsport are Italian, but very few offer genuine cuisine. It’s mostly pizza. I actually chose this restaurant because there is a movie based on an incident that took place in a Spaghetti House in the 1980s. You can watch the entire movie on YouTube in Italian.

Tomorrow’s schedule includes both Tate Museums, Shakespeare’s Globe Theater tour, and the “Long Days Journey Into Night” play. My feet will be killing me.

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London Trip – Day One

I began my trip by driving down to Philadelphia International Airport instead of departing from our regional airport, Williamsport Regional Airport (IPT), because it makes it harder for the airline to reschedule a flight when you factor in a regional airport. I was originally scheduled to fly to Toronto and catch an international flight to London from there but United changed that to Washington DC’s Dulles Airport. So I added information on that airport to my Washington DC notes.

Since this was my first trip departing directly from Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) it is worthwhile to commit a few details to memory in this blog. I didn’t have any problems finding the Economy Parking lot where I parked at K15 after taking a ticket. I had to carry my luggage all the way to Terminal F where I easily found the United check-in counters. I was way early so I had to wait until around 4:00 a.m. when they opened the counters to serve passengers for 6:00 a.m. flights. So for future reference, don’t plan to show up at the Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) before 4:00 a.m. I neglected to print out my flight details but fortunately I could find the United Airlines record locator code BCWMYV in my iTouch notes. You need to enter that code into the touch screen computer to print your boarding passes. After that you can check in your bag. I’m describing the entire process of boarding a flight because I don’t remember it from my previous trips. Checking in a bag involves placing it on a scale, but they don’t open the bag to check it contents right there. They print a tag for the bag and give you a baggage claim receipt.

After that you proceed to the gates which requires going through security first. Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) is still just using metal detectors. You need to take your laptop out of your carry on bag and remove your shoes. I did not have to remove my belt. I brought my used DELL Latitude D610 but it proved to be too heavy. It weighs almost six pounds (6 lbs) and really made my carry on bag heavy and ungainly. I will have to do research on a lighter netbook. Most of the airport restaurants and shops were just opening so I proceeded directly to my gate. Unfortunately they immediately put the plane on an one hour delay for maintenance. This did not trouble me because I could still catch my connecting flight in Washington DC. I went to the nearby Dunkin Donuts in Terminal D and bought a Big N’ Toasted breakfast sandwich and a cup of coffee. After waiting for over an hour they delayed the flight again until it became clear that I could not catch my connecting flight. There were no United personnel at the counter so I had to leave the gates area and go back downstairs which meant going back through security. At the counter they offered me a later flight to London after the plane would finally make it to Washington Dulles but I noticed that they were going to replace the plane so I didn’t want to try my luck with that. They also offered a connecting flight to  Chicago where I could catch an international flight to London so I accepted that. After going through security again I had just enough time to catch my flight to Chicago.

Chicago O’Hare International Airport isn’t in my travel notes because I never expected to be so far west. I’ll have to add many more airports to my notes because you never know where you could end up due to a rescheduled flight. Not that you can prepare for an airport anyway, because they are too sprawling to find you way around. I saw a bit of the Chicago skyline though the airplane window as we landed. I saw a long line of skyscrapers like Manhattan but we were pretty far from the city. At the Chicago O’Hare International Airport I took a photo of a dinosaur skeleton because other people were doing that. I had hours to wait for the flight to London’s Heathrow Airport so I used my electric razor in the restroom to get rid of twelve o’clock shadow. Then I had a cheese burger, French fries, and orange juice at Billy Goat at precisely 10:35 a.m. I should note that Chicago is in a different time zone so I had to set back my watch back an hour to ensure I didn’t miss my flight. I read part of a novel on my Kindle and bought Internet access through Boingo Wireless to send my hotel an update email on my expected arrival time.

After a layover of several hours the United flight to London finally departed. I watched a few movies on the tiny seat-back video during the long flight. I saw The Iron Lady, a biographical film based on the life of Margaret Thatcher, which was appropriate and part of Hugo. The video wasn’t play on demand in economy. We were served lunch, a snack, a soft drink, and a breakfast roll so I certainly did not starve. As we finally approached London around 5:00 a.m. I could see lots of lights outside the plane window but no familiar landmarks.

So, what can I remember of Heathrow Airport (LHR)? I may very well find myself in Heathrow again as a stopping off point on some other European trip. There was the usual long walk though airport corridors. Before I reached immigration control, I used the restroom again to sneak an electric shave. The  immigration checkpoint requires you to fill out an immigration card. This is necessary even if you are a tourist. That little detail wasn’t mentioned in any of my travel guides. Heathrow Airport has been in the news lately because they make European Union residents wait in long lines for arrivals. Fortunately this problem does not exist for non European Union arrivals and it was too early for long lines. After collecting my one checked bag, I tried to find the exit to public transportation. I had planned on taking a taxi but it was very early in the morning and I did not see any taxis. So I decided to take the Heathrow Express train to Paddington Station which I knew would take me close to my hotel. Getting to the Heathrow Express train involved taking an elevator down to the trains. You cannot use an Oyster Card or a Travel Card for the Heathrow Express so I had to buy a special ticket which was £19.00! That was pretty expensive but I suppose it was cheaper than a taxi.

From Paddington Station I had to drag my luggage along Praed Street until I reached Edgware Road. From there it was a long walk to the Marble Arch landmark from where it was easy to find the Parkwood Hotel. My room was very narrow with a tiny bathroom and small shower but I found it perfectly adequate. I had WiFi Internet, a small flat panel TV, and a hairdryer. I think I slept for two or three hours and then went downstairs to check in and enjoy my first Full English Breakfast. Breakfast consisted of four slices of toast and a plate of Canadian Bacon, one sausage, scrambled eggs, baked beans, and a slice of tomato. I later asked them not to give me baked beans or the tomato because these are unusual items for an American breakfast.

Although I was dead tired from jetlag, I proceeded to follow my grueling schedule. First I took the Tube to Piccadilly Circus. I had my Oyster Card so it was easy to get through the turnstile, although you do have to be quick about it. The Marble Arch Station was the Tube station I used most often. After going through the turnstile you usually head towards the escalators, making sure to stand on the right, and then you walk down several tunnels to the platform for your line which goes in the right direction. So on my first trip I took the Central Line going East. Fortunately, I never took the wrong train on my frequent Tube journeys. Once I arrived at Piccadilly Circus I walked up Shaftesbury Avenue to find the Apollo Theatre because I wanted a few photos of their advertising for the play I was going to see on Tuesday.

There was one aspect of Piccadilly Circus I was not expecting, The Four Bronze Horses of Helios by sculptor Rudy Weller. This was not in my notes but it would have been useful in identifying the streets. I walked from Piccadilly Circus to Trafalgar Square. Trafalgar Square was far larger than it appears in photos and it looked a bit emptier. I can see how it could accommodate large crowds. I saw the digital clock counting down the days until the 2012 Olympics and I saw Nelson’s Column which is huge. After taking lots of photos I wandered into the National Gallery where I spent a few hours looking at works of art. They had a special exhibit on Titian which was particularly interesting to me because my next trip to Europe will be Venice. At the National Gallery shop I bought the book Titian: the Last Days by Mark Hudson (ISBN: 978-1-4088-0132-1) and a National Gallery CD of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons.

When I left the National Gallery I walked towards Big Ben which was visible in the distance.  I walked pass No 10 Downing Street which was fenced off and guarded, and saw some Queen’s Guards mounted on horses outside the Horse Guards building. I also saw the Centotaph and the National Monument to the Women of World War II. When I reached Parliament I was unable to go any further because the London Marathon was taking place. I did manage to see a few runners though.

I spent the rest of the day in the National Portrait Gallery. They are running a special exhibit on the paintings of Lucian Freud so I got to see that using my London Pass. That was a significant cultural event so the galleries were packed. I do have an art book on Lucian Freud so I recognized a lot of the paintings. They had many of his nudes, self-portraits, and his most famous portraits. The only painting I did not see was his portrait of the Queen. I had lunch at the 3rd Floor Restaurant although I had to eat at the bar because I did not have a reservation. I ordered a glass of prosecco, the Italian white wine popular in Venice and plaice, a flat fish. I did not like the plaice which had a lot of fish bones in it. I don’t know how you are supposed to even eat it. I eventually just scraped some flesh off the top of the bones. When I left the National Portrait Gallery it was raining so I had to buy an umbrella in the gift shop.

When I got back to the hotel I spent the rest of the evening on the Internet and went to bed early to recover from jetlag.

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Cherry Blossom Festival – Washington DC Trip

Yesterday I made my third trip to Washington DC. In just two weeks I’ll be making yet another bus trip to this city. I want to visit Washington DC as often as possible as long as I’m not doing the driving. Eventually I would like to explore the city for its own sake, but it will take many trips before I’ve seen all the museums on the National Mall.

This bus trip included a cruise on the Potomac River. The cruise ship was the Nina’s Dandy operated by the company Potomac Party Cruises. The dock was in Alexandria Virginia so I got to see some of this historic city on the west bank of the Potomac River, south of Washington DC. The historic center, known as Old Town, was quite impressive with fancy boutiques, restaurants, antique shops, art galleries, and picturesque townhouses which were resplendent with spring foliage. There was even a photo shot in progress when we arrived although it looked like a couple having wedding photos taken. I saw the Alexandria Torpedo Factory but we did not go inside. Alexandria’s Old Town is definitely an attractive tourist destination but it seems a bit difficult to get to if you are based in Washington DC. I saw an Alexandria water taxi which may be a good way to get there.

Washington DC does not have any skyscrapers. So you see lots of office parks with large office buildings all around the city. Alexandria Virginia had many office parks and apartment buildings or condominiums. I also saw many office parks on the drive down as we approached Washington DC, including a large IBM campus.

As soon as the bus arrived at the dock we were allowed to board the cruise ship where they immediately served us coffee, then a salad, and finally the main meal shortly after we left the dock. While we waited, I was able to watch many commercial airplanes making their landing at Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport. Planes were landing approximately every 15 minutes so I saw a lot of planes that day. I also saw many planes taking off. In 1982 one of those planes from that airport crashed into the 14th Street Bridge, killing almost everyone on board and several people in cars on the bridge. I don’t remember ever hearing anything about this fatal crash but it was a long time ago.

The cruise ship was just barely able to pass under the 14th Street Bridge due to the water level and we could not go far past that because the tide was still coming in and we would not have been able to return under the bridge. So we did not get a good look at the Lincoln Memorial from the Potomac River or see the Kennedy Center. Instead the cruise ship headed up the Anacostia River where I saw several sights I had not researched; the National War College, the Nationals Park stadium, and the U.S.S. Barry destroyer at the Washington Navy Yard.

On the return trip I saw the U.S.S. Sequoia Presidential Yacht which was docked near the Nina’s Dandy dock and the Cherry Blossom paddle wheel boat. There was one office building along the Potomac River that caught my eye because it had my last name on it, the Robbins-Gioia headquarters in Alexandria Virginia. This corporation seems to provide project management consultation for the government since they hire professionals with security clearance. They offer technology services and seek Microsoft Certified Professionals skilled in Microsoft SharePoint and Microsoft Project Server. Well at least their name is cool!

After the Nina’s Dandy returned to its dock, we boarded our bus and went to the Washington Monument where the bus driver circled the National Mall for almost an hour trying to find a parking spot. This began to piss me off but eventually he parked in front of the Smithsonian Institution Building which was right next to where I wanted to go, the Hirshorn Museum, so that worked out well for me. Washington DC is packed with tourists and their tour buses. This is a bit surprising because you only ever hear about the politics and don’t consider the city a major tourist destination but I guess Washington DC is popular with tourists. That makes me feel better about making frequent trips to the city. I saw some tourists on Segways which seems rather futuristic to me. Not too many things strike me as being futuristic after four decades but Segways are very common now. They were unimaginable in the 1980s.

The Hirshorn Museum was my major goal for this trip. This museum specializes in modern art. The building itself is quite futuristic looking and worth a visit for its own sake. Its collection of artwork is not very extensive or impressive though. I only spent an hour there. I did see some paintings of Francis Bacon and William de Kooning, two of my favorite painters, and a few paintings by Edward Hopper. Also, the view of the National Mall from the lounge on the top floor was pretty cool. I bought the Official Guide To The Smithsonian at the bookshop. Technically, the Hirshorn Museum is part of the Smithsonian. Then I crossed the street to the Sculpture Garden which looks lovely in the Spring. There I saw Auguste Rodin’s “Monument to Balzac”yet again. I’ve seen copies of this sculpture at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City and on the Boulevard du Montparnasse in Paris.

After leaving the sculpture garden I walked to the United States Capitol, the meeting place of the United States Congress. Along the way I found the National Mall all dug up because they are replacing its soil, according to a sign. It really ruins the view. On my last trip to Washington DC I found the reflecting pool in front of the Lincoln Memorial was drained and looked like a construction site so this just adds to the impression of  Washington DC as one huge construction site. Even the Capitol Building had some scaffolding so I didn’t get any ideal photos of it. However, I did like the Ulysses S. Grant Memorial which was very grand and impressive. This memorial features an equestrian statue of General Grant flanked by two Civil War sculptures. The bronze sculptures have stained their marble bases green.

That concluded my third trip to Washington DC. On the way back, we stopped for diner at the Mountaingate Family Restaurant in Thurmont Maryland for a buffet diner. I only mention this because I saw another Susquehanna Trailways bus there so it seems to be a poplar stop for this bus company. On my next trip to Washington DC in just two weeks I think I will visit National Air and Space Museum. That is certainly a  major museum that should not be missed.

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French Grammar Cheat Sheet: Review

I have been given a French Grammar cheat sheet to review. This cheat sheet conjugates many of the major verbs in several tenses. It also has two pages of hand written notes which are a bit hard to read. You can buy this cheat sheet for $15.00 ($7.00 for students) from http://www.frenchgrammarhelp.com/

I am still adding pages to my personal French notes which I do not share with the public because it contains a lot of copyrighted material. In my notes on major verbs, I do not conjugate the verb in all the tenses. I only do the present tense, the past tense, and the future tense. But I do include all the sample sentences I can find from various sources. I think the sample sentences are proving to be the most helpful in improving my French because it exposes me to many other words in addition to the verb I am studying. I have also built up my prepositions, adverbs, and adjectives which really improves my reading ability.

Since my Poconos trip for the summer has been canceled, I have decided to go to Montreal instead. I already have time off from work approved. Montreal is a major francophone city. I should be able to find lots of French language materials there and I’ll experience a culture which is described in many of my French textbooks. It should also prove to be really inspiring which is very important. You really need to keep your enthusiasm level up to continue the tedious chore of learning a language.

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Philadelphia Flower Show Trip

Yesterday I went on a bus trip to the Philadelphia Flower Show. I was not particularly interested in the flower show, but it was an opportunity to visit Philadelphia without driving. The bus departed from the new location of Susquehanna Trailways in the Williamsport Transportation Center. I found the parking deck to be completing mystifying. The instructions from Susquehanna Trailways mentioned a ticket and they sent me a chaser ticket to get a discount. However I had to insert my credit card to open the gate and there was no ticket. When I left the gate attendant just opened the gate for me and waved me through without payment.

As the bus approached Philadelphia somebody must have noticed that Schuylkill Expressway was all backed up because the bus continued along Interstate 476 which runs west of Philadelphia. This was very interesting to me because we drove pass the Philadelphia International Airport. I’ll have to drive to this airport for my dream vacation to London. I have already booked my flight. I could not book a direct flight from Philadelphia to London. The plane will first go to Toronto Canada. Any ways, I saw the long term parking lot but the road signs looked very confusing so I’ll have to do some research on how to get to the right parking lot. The bus also drove past the sport complexes, Lincoln Financial Field, Citizens Bank Park, and Wells Fargo Center. I was glad that I got to see them. Then we drove over a long blue bridge which was not in my travel notes. This must have been the Girard Point Bridge which carries Interstate 95 across the Schuylkill River near the Philadelphia Navy Yard.

Philadelphia Flower Show

When we arrived in downtown Philadelphia I saw many industrial buildings being converted into apartment blocks just north of the Vine Street Expressway, just to the east of Broad Street. I’m not sure if that is a recent development because I’ve never noticed that area before. The flower show was held in the Pennsylvania Convention Center, a huge building that spans several blocks. We were dropped off on Arch Street right across from a brick building that was built in 1888, near the Center for Architecture.

Philadelphia Museum of Art

I did not find the flower show to be all that spectacular. After taking lots of photos for approximately an hour, I left and walked along Arch Street to National Constitution Center. I’ve seen the National Constitution Center on every trip to Philadelphia but this was my first visit to the place because nobody recommends it. I knew it was open on Sundays because my custom travel guide on my iPod Touch has this information. It was really useful on this trip because I didn’t do any prior planning. The National Constitution Center was holding a special Bruce Springsteen Exhibition which I probably should have seen. However, I just paid for general admission and did the “We the People” multimedia show with an inspiring live actor and 360-degree movie screen. Although I’ve seen photos of the National Constitution Center exhibit space, I still found the actual layout completely unexpected. For example, after the multimedia show in a circular auditorium which narrows to a small stage, you exit at the top of the seating areas to enter the circle of exhibits. The most interesting exhibit was a large model of the Capital Building in Washington DC which I may visit some day. You are only allowed to take photos in the Signers Hall. I signed their constitution. Before I left I visited the bookstore where I had trouble finding anything I wanted to buy. But eventually I settled for a Philadelphia bookmark and a book on Center City Philadelphia published by Arcadia Publishing.

Signers Hall

By then it was well past time for lunch so I decided to visit one of the famous restaurants I had not eaten at on any earlier trip. Philadelphia is a major foodie city with many fine restaurants. I decided to try Jon’s Bar and Grille on South Street, associated with one of Three Stooges, Larry Fine. Fortunately it was open so I ordered a Three Stooges burger and a Pepsi. Just across the street is the dive bar Mako’s Retired Surfers Bar & Grill which appeared to be for sale. After consulting my iPhone travel guide, I saw that Queen Village bookstore Head House Books was nearby and should be open so I went there and bought a book on the architecture of Venice.

Jon's Bar and Grill

Head House Books

I felt really pleased to have accomplished so much on this trip. I finally got to see the National Constitution Center, ate at a famous South Street restaurant, and visited another book store. After that I walked all over Philadelphia taking more photos for my custom travel guide. I took photos of the SEPTA Market-Frankford Line subway station entrances, the new Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts paintbrush public sculpture, the Joseph Fox Bookshop entrance, and many other landmarks and public sculptures. I was mainly trying to get photos of establishments for which I could not find any decent photos online like the Laff House Comedy Club.

Paint Torch

Grumman Greenhouse

Laff House

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Je peux lire un livre en français.

Two years ago I wrote a blog post about my desire to learn how to read French. Unfortunately, I put aside that project to learn German for my trip to Berlin. But over the past few months I have been putting a lot of effort into learning French. I can now read a simple “facile à lire” book in French (i.e. easy to read). Learning how to read French is actually a very ambitious goal because you need to know several thousand words just to read a children’s book. However I have made several improvements to my study methods which are yielding results.

First, I am now adding hundreds of pages to my notes on individual words. So far I have created detailed notes on 78 adjectives, 37 adverbs, 24 prepositions, and 173 verbs. It is unnecessary to take notes on nouns since the same nouns occur over and over again in the sample sentences I collect, although I do have a few vocabulary lists. Each page in my notes includes as many sample sentences as I can find from several sources and an image which illustrates the word used in a film poster or book cover. I like to search for just the right image because it helps me to remember the word and I discover new French cultural products that way. This is a tedious exercise but it is probably improving my French more than anything.

Second, I have bought many children’s books that are designed to be easy to read. Many language learners fancy themselves as sophisticated intellectuals so they immediately try to read the greatest works of literature in their target language. This is a big mistake because literature represents the most sophisticated use of a language and a beginner is not ready for that. There are actually many books that are designed to be easy to read. These books are intended to encourage young children to learn how to read, but a language learner can use them too. My favorite sources of French books are J’aime lire and Facile à Lire. I’ve read five of the Facile à Lire books so far, levels 1 and 2.

Third, I have started to do research on trips to French cities like Montreal, Lyon, and Paris. I usually compile my own custom travel guides for my major trips. This requires a lot of detailed research. I find it rather inspiring and I learn a lot about the geography and resources available in a city in the process. Planning a trip is a great way to learn more about a culture, assuming you really do your homework. Recently I’ve been doing some armchair exploration of Lyon. Lyon is a large city in France which seems to be virtually unknown to the English speaking world. There is only one guidebook for Lyon available in English, the Thomas Cook Pocket Guide. However, there are many French travel guides for this city so I have ordered a few from Amazon.fr. They will be entirely in French but I should be able to read them a bit.

The fourth thing I’ve done is buy several French textbooks from Amazon.fr. This should really help me to explore French culture. I bought five textbooks. It was very expensive due to the shipping costs but fortunately the French don’t try to gouge their students by charging them hundreds of dollars for a required textbook. Most French textbooks are reasonably priced.

It is difficult to choose a French textbook so I will described the ones I bought. A geography textbook proved to be an interesting purchase. I’m not quite sure what this course is supposed to teach as part of the French education. It seems to combine geography with social studies, urban planning, and world affairs. The book features a lot of maps and charts. Geography would be a rather curious subject in American high schools.

I liked the textbooks on literature more than the geography textbook. I was surprised by how much I already know about French literature. These books are way beyond my reading level but they feature lots of photos and illustrations including famous artwork. I tried to find textbooks on contemporary literature rather than medieval literature so I only bought volume 2 of the Bordas textbooks.

Littérature, tome 2. XIXe et XXe siécle : Prat : Livres

ISBN: 204028477X
ISBN-13: 9782040284770

My favorite of all the textbooks is a Français textbook which would be similar to our English textbooks, featuring literature rather than actual language instruction. This textbook was especially interesting for its sections on French theater and drama. I have forgotten all about French drama. I really should search for some contemporary French drama in print because plays are short and easy to read.

I also bought two textbooks on history. These proved to be textbooks on World History and only showed some bias towards French history. You would be disappointed if you bought these textbooks expecting a detailed account of French history. I liked the book on 20th Century history better than the other book. This book includes material on contemporary events like the World Trade Center attack.

The other history textbook provides an overview of European History with an emphasis on general trends.

I would recommend a Français textbook and maybe a book on French drama. As an IT professional, I suppose I should search for a computer science textbook in French. I bet there are more interesting used textbooks but it is difficult to buy them on the French version of eBay. Most sellers won’t want to ship overseas. However, the French version of AbeBooks often has reasonable shipping rates.

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My New Devices

I have not written a blog post since October. I have not been traveling over the winter. I should write about my business instead of my travels. I am falling way behind on the technology because I spend more time on travel preparation than anything else. That is not to say that my skills aren’t progressing because I occasionally learn how to do something new. I now have Visual Studio 2010 at work so I’ve started a new web application using ASP.NET 4.0 and Visual Studio 2010. I’m also using SubSonic 3.0 for that project.

I should buy some books on Git, Drupal, and CodeIgnitor because those are all the things I have an immediate need to learn. I have been buying some hardware. I now have a scanner that works with Vista. Scanners are pretty cheap and I was getting tired of booting up an old system just to do some scanning. I also have a Kindle. As a bibliomaniac I prefer good old paper books but my house is so crammed with books that there was a crying need to go digital. So far I have not taken to my e-reader. I bought a few books for it but I do not read them. The Kindle is no better than an old Palm Pilot with a screen that does not come close to matching the crispness of print. But maybe I will come to appreciate it when I take it on a trip.

My brother gave me a SuperPad for Christmas. I barely use it because it is hard to scroll the screen without making an accidental selection. The SuperPad is similar to an iPad but it runs the Android operating system from Google. If I used it more often I might have some incentive to create Android applications. I am disappointed that it cannot run Flash which means I can’t use my SuperPad for Google Street View. This rules the device out as a replacement for my laptop when traveling. Unfortunately, my iBook is now too old to run the latest version of the Flash Player so I’ll have to buy a cheap laptop to use while traveling.

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Reading As Exploration

I like to read and to travel. Travel is more interesting when you’ve read about a place and then actually go there. Reading is a passive activity and can make you feel like you are missing out on life. But travel can make you feel like you are having the adventures you’ve only read about. I admit that nobody writes about their vacation. International travel has become mundane. A person has to live in a foreign country as an expat and then write about their experiences to warrant a book.

I do my homework for my trips because I don’t like to feel lost. Currently I’m researching London for my major vacation next year. Studying the geography of London and the history of the UK is extremely useful in improving your understanding of English Literature. For example, researching Bloomsbury led me to finally read something by Virginia Woolf, Mrs. Dalloway, a novel recommended by the travel guides on London. I’ve never been too clear on who Virginia Woolf was because the Edward Albee play Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? gives her a different literary significance. I’ve also been reading the novels of E. M. Forster, another writer associated with the Bloomsbury group.

Mrs. Dalloway (9780151009985): Virginia Woolf: Books

ISBN: 0151009988
ISBN-13: 9780151009985

However, I find it more interesting when my research leads to something more obscure. Digging into the history of the Soho neighborhood has led me to far more interesting finds. I often research famous establishments which are particularly useful in discovering new information about the local culture. For example, The French House in Soho was frequented by many artists and writers. One particular artist, Augustus John, led  me to discover a very interesting individual. One of his more famous portraits is a painting of Marchesa Casati. So I googled Luisa Casati and found her eccentric enough to want to know more about her extraordinary life.

marchesa casati by john augustus

Fortunately there is a book about the Marchesa Luisa Casati, Infinite Variety: The Life and Legend of the Marchesa Casati by Scot D. Ryersson and Michael Orlando Yaccarino. Here is a book I never would have found if I weren’t planning a trip to London. Luisa Casati actually spent the last few years of her life in London and died there. The Marchesa was a fascinating eccentric. She has been described as a Belle Époque goth. Her taste in art was certainly bizarre and led me to discover several interesting artists like Alastair and Gustav Adolf Mossa who doesn’t even have a Wikipedia article.

I particularly liked reading about the Marchesa Luisa Casati eccentric behavior in Venice because I would like to visit that city some day and Luisa Casati makes an inspiring fantasy figure for that city. She used to rent the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni which is now the Peggy Guggenheim Collection art museum. Most of my travel guides on Venice fail to mention the Marchesa Luisa Casati so I would not have learned about her through research on Venice.

Gustav Adolf Mossa

My research led me to discover one more book that I never would have come across, The Film Of Memory by Maurice Druon. This is a novel inspired by the life of the Marchesa Luisa Casati. It describes the sad decline of a Belle Époque courtesan. This novel is also available in the original French as La Volupté d’être which I also bought because I’m studying French and it is useful to have the same novel in both English and French.

9782253005209-G

In conclusion, reading can lead you to marvelous discoveries in art, history, and travel if you pursue the cultural connections. With tools like Wikipedia it is easy to discover more about authors and their work. You can learn what people, places, or novels inspired the author and dig deeper into his world by googling them. When the author shares your sensibilities this can be particularly rewarding. Since the Marchesa Luisa Casati shared my sensibilities for the morbid and bizarre I found it interesting to look for the artwork of the painters she admired.

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A Pennsylvania Shopping Excursion

Today I went on a bus trip to Rice’s Market and Peddler’s Village in New Hope PA. I had heard about these markets in my Philadelphia guide books which also cover the Bucks Country area. So technically this trip was part of my exploration of the greater Philadelphia area. But I wasn’t particularly excited about this trip since it only involved shopping.

The bus stopped at the McDonald’s off the 277 Exit where Interstate 80 meets the Pennsylvania Turnpike. This was of particular interest to me now because it is near Lake Harmony, where the Vloggerheads Poconos vacation will take place. I could see that you should make a left there to head towards  Lake Harmony instead of going straight ahead through the turnpike. I’ll have to remember that next year. It takes approximately an hour and a half to reach Lake Harmony from Williamsport.

The bus passed through Quakertown so I got to see a little of this borough (in PA a borough is a self-governing municipal entity that is usually smaller than a city). The driver got lost on the way to Rice’s Market. This was understandable because there weren’t enough signs to show you the way and the roads were slightly confusing. It was amusing to see someone else get lost on Pennsylvania’s rural roads just like I do. That is one of the beauties of tour bus trips. It is someone else’s responsibility to find the way to your destination.

Bucks Country seems like a lovely area with upscale rural homes. I saw many McMansions set back in wooded lots with stone walls, bordered by corn fields. The fall foliage is just starting to add some color to the woods. I also noticed quite a few horse riding establishments and corals of horses.

Rice’s Market was quite a disappointment. The merchandise was completely uninteresting to me and the quality of goods was worse than a dime store. Seriously, you would find better things at Family Dollar. The books were mostly water damaged and the DVD cases were faded from being left out in the sun. I also saw lots of cheap costume jewelry and trashy fashion accessories. This flea market would only interest a vintage clothing queen and I did see quite a few of those walking around. I almost did not buy anything at all but after lowering my standards I bought a quartz crystal and the Mystic Faerie Tarot at an occult bookstore type stall. Don’t laugh, that was the only marginally interesting thing I could find.

Fortunately Peddler’s Village proved to be a much better shopping experience. Peddler’s Village is a quaint village of boutiques housed in cottages. I thought the village was slightly tacky and looked like a real tourist trap but the boutiques were fairly upscale with quality merchandise. There was British Car and Bike Show event hosted by the Philadelphia MG Club so Peddler’s Village was really crowded. Seeing all those British sport cars was an extra treat.

I quickly found the Canterbury Tales Forever book shoppe where I bought the guide book Frommer’s Maryland and Delaware which includes Baltimore.  I also bought the Victorian novel The Moonstone by Wilkie Collins for inspiration for my future trip to London. After that I came across a shop that sold German merchandise, Black Forest Clocks, where I splurged on a cute Bavarian rodent stuffed animal, a Germany coffee mug, and some imported German ground coffee, Jacobs Krönung, Bester Spitzenkaffee mit dem Verwöhnaroma.

Then I found the Cock & Bull restaurant where I gave them my name to reserve a table because there was going to be an hour’s wait to seat me. This restaurant had a Zagat rating sign so apparently it is considered to be a fine restaurant. But until I could be seated I keep busy by buying some ice cream and doing a little more shopping. At a boutique called The Mole Hole I bought something that I usually would not be interested in, a glass paperweight. I bought the glass paperweight because it did look quite lovely and had an usual property; it glows in the dark. When I got home I found that it only just barely glows in the dark.

When I returned to the Cock & Bull restaurant I was immediately shown to a table. I ordered fish and chips and a glass of Riesling white wine. I ordered fish and chips as a preview of London fare. You can’t buy a fish and chips frozen diner in the United States. I don’t think any restaurant in Williamsport serves fish and chips except for maybe Red Lobster. I thought the fish was perfect with a very crusty coating and tender flesh that was fully cooked. The wine tasted too strongly of alcohol, almost like drinking chemicals. The portions were large so I was unable to finish all my chips and the coleslaw.

That will probably be my last bus trip for this year because it is getting colder and I don’t want to travel over the winter. I do have a reservation on a local train excursion this month. This train will probably go right past where I work since we frequently see Lycoming Valley Railroad freight trains go by.

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The Visionary City Of Baltimore

Yesterday I went on a bus trip to Baltimore Maryland. This was my first time in Baltimore. I’ve never heard much about this city and often confused it with Boston. But Baltimore proved to be an awesome city with impressive skyscrapers downtown and a nautical wonderland, the Inner Harbor. I would recommend Baltimore to European tourists who want to visit a major American city comparable to New York City, but on a much smaller scale.

Technically the bus trip was to the National Aquarium in Baltimore but you could really spend the day as you wished. When we arrived the tour operator went into the National Aquarium and bought tickets for the entire bus (included in the reservation price). So the first place I visited was the National Aquarium. I had just enough time to find the Pier 4 Pavilion for the Dolphin Show. I’ve never seen an aquarium show before so this was a real treat. The dolphin show lasted a half hour and displayed the acrobatic swimming skills of these marine mammals. I sat far enough up in the bleachers to be out of the splash zone.

After the dolphin show I explored the rest of the National Aquarium in Baltimore which includes a rooftop rainforest, a central ray pool, and a multiple-story shark tank. It was a grand experience that re-awakened a sense of childlike wonder in me. I had lunch at the Harbor View Café which gave me an excellent view of the harbor to enjoy while I was eating.

After seeing everything the National Aquarium had to offer my next goal was to visit the American Visionary Art Museum. This museum was really my major goal for a trip to Baltimore so I’m glad this trip wasn’t exclusively for the National Aquarium. Getting to the American Visionary Art Museum looked like it would require a long walk around the entire harbor so I took a water taxi. Later I discovered that the walk was not that bad because I eventually walked back to the National Aquarium from the American Visionary Art Museum. The water taxi cost $10.00 but you could ride all day with a hand stamp. Unfortunately the water taxi driver got confused about where I wanted to go and told me to transfer to the express boat which took me to Fell’s Point, a neighborhood far from the inner harbor. That was slightly annoying but I did get a long cruise around the harbor and saw a creepy landmark, the Domino Sugar Plant with its huge neon sign, a supertanker, and an old battleship. I also saw fancy condominiums, yachts, and glass skyscrapers along the harbor which made it clear that people love the harbor view. My only nautical experience has been some Caribbean cruises so this was a fascinating experience for me. When the water taxi returned me to Harbor Place I had to take another water taxi to get to Rusty Skupper, a seafood restaurant which has the correct water taxi landing for visitors to the American Visionary Art Museum.

The American Visionary Art Museum intrigued me because I consider myself to be as visionary as William Blake. In fact, it amazes me that such a museum even exists because for a very long time I considered visionaries to be completely unknown to the world. Arthur Rimbaud was the only writer I knew who described visionary experiences and he was considered a mad fool by the French. The existence of the American Visionary Art Museum really violates my sense of the strict separation of the private inner world and the public world which can never acknowledge each other. In the context of Inner Harbor, which is a tacky tourist center, finding a museum that purports to represent visionary art is especially unnerving because it really puts the visionary in the public space.

Although the very idea of creating a museum for visionary art seems like a futile dream, I must admit that I was somewhat impressed. The exterior of the museum is covered in mirrored tiles just like Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Some of the artwork also used mosaics formed out of pieces of glass and mirrors.  But I did see some works of art which were unmistakably visionary. For example, Untitled (Seven Panels) by James Franklin Snodgrass was a massive vision of hell with an incredible amount of detail. It was clearly a spiritual masterpiece. But I was even more struck by the paintings of Eugene Von Bruenchenhein. His work was featured in a special exhibition entitled “Out Of This World” and I did find his artwork to be extraordinarily other worldly. I had no problem accepting this as visionary art. You can view his work online at http://www.vonbruenchenhein.com/. Eugene Von Bruenchenhein never achieved any public recognition even though he created thousands of highly remarkable paintings. It amazes me that someone could exert that much effort into communicating his vision and still have it all come to nothing as far as his life is concerned.

The American Visionary Art Museum has a quirky gift shop, the Sideshow, where you can buy all sorts of strange merchandise. I spent almost $100 in this boutique because there was a lot there that appealed to my tastes. I bought the book Outsider Art Sourcebook: International Guide to Outsider Art and Folk Art (Raw Vision) which was a good choice because it included one page on  Eugene Von Bruenchenhein.

I also bought an insect sculpture made out of gears which resembles a style of outsider sculpture. It is just a wind-up toy but I was amazed that you can buy something like that for just $13.00. http://www.kikkerland.com/products/wind-up-katita/

They had a few DVDs on various outsider artists and I was uncertain about which one I might like but eventually I settled on Jack Smith And The Destruction of Atlantis because I’m vaguely familiar with this filmmaker. I also bought a Haunted Memories: Spooky Changing Portrait which is an old time photograph that decays when you tilt it.

As I said, the The American Visionary Art Museum intrigues me. But how exactly do they define “visionary art”? According to their mission statement, “Visionary art as defined for the purposes of the American Visionary Art Museum refers to art produced by self-taught individuals, usually without formal training, whose works arise from an innate personal vision that revels foremost in the creative act itself.” This is a bit disappointing because I do not consider formal art training to be particularly relevant in relation to the visionary. But the museum redeems itself in the next sentence, “In short, visionary art begins by listening to the inner voices of the soul, and often may not even be thought of as ‘art’ by its creator.“. This statement is closer to my view that visionary art is the true revelation of the soul, compelled by the soul, and transcends a superficial concept of art. Furthermore, the museum is careful to distinguish visionary art from folk art and it is clear that their focus is on the former. Read this.

I have to be careful not to get too excited by the American Visionary Art Museum. For me, visionary art is powerful and profound. It is powerful enough to fuel a mad obsession should I ever feel that anything in the world could offer me its fulfillment. Fortunately this potential for obsession is tempered by the arbitrary nature of inspiration and the understanding that nothing possesses inherent spiritual significance. It is my power to ensoul the world, to see anything as a vision, but it is a mistake to imagine there is something to seek.

As I mentioned previously, after leaving the American Visionary Art Museum I walked back to the National Aquarium side of the harbor rather than wait for a water taxi. It did not prove to be too far to walk. Unfortunately the batteries in my camera died so my immediate concern was to buy more batteries. I entered the Pratt Street Pavilion of the Haborplace mall but I could not find a store that sold batteries. I did buy a few cheap Baltimore souvenirs though. I still had plenty of time before the bus left at 6:30 p.m. so I went to the Barnes & Noble bookstore in the Pratt Street Power Plant. This Barnes & Noble has a large aquarium inside which must be in tribute to the National Aquarium. There I bought a copy of Baltimore Magazine and the Washingtonian magazine, local lifestyle magazines which I wanted for further research. I went upstairs and searched through their impressive selection of Criterion DVDs for a “visionary film”. I think I made a great choice in selecting Sawdust and Tinsel (Ingmar Bergman 1953). This film is supposed to be very dreamlike. The DVD booklet features a photo of a tragic clown which looks very promising. I have not had time to watch this DVD yet but I think I will like it.

I didn’t do much after this shopping except for killing some time at a Potbelly Sandwich Shop and finding my way to the Gallery where I bought some AA batteries for my camera at a dollar store. Baltimore made quite an impression upon me with its soaring skyscrapers, I especially like an Art Deco building, and its Inner Harbor which is a nautical wonderland. The American Visionary Art Museum gave the city considerably more charm in my estimation. Baltimore is not that far from where I live in Pennsylvania. From Harrisburg you just need to follow Interstate 83 South into Maryland and then it is only around twenty minutes to Baltimore. The tour bus actually drove through Harrisburg on its east end so I was able to see the state capitol building. I definitely intend to do more research on Baltimore and visit the city often in the future.

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